Not the Hue You Know
June 8, 2020
Inspirational Art, The Polymer Arts magazine news, Tips and Tricks

Amber Elledge used Premo’s fuchsia, cobalt, zinc yellow and white to mix all these brilliant colors. www.facebook.com/starlessclay/
Welcome to the first week of the new incarnation of the Virtual Art Box. I’m not going to continue referring to it as such since the contents will be spread out over the weeks instead of packaged (boxed) but for those of you who have been with me since the inception of the VAB, know that you’ll get the same design lessons and ideas to improve your skills and artistic knowledge that you had when you were getting this as part of the VAB membership. For those of you who have only been joining me for the weekly blog, you’re in for quite the treat if you have any curiosity and desire to further understand how design works in creating craft.
I think you’ll be delighted to know that were going to start this new iteration of the VAB focused on color. I knew the color content couldn’t be just one article and a few nudges though. Nope. Color is far too multifaceted. It is easily the most nuanced and intricate of all design elements. I could spend the rest of the year just talking about color. I mean, just think about it … is there any other design element for which entire books are written? And so many? Well, not that I know of.
But it’s not just that there is a lot to talk about with color. The reason there are so many books, classes, and websites about color is because it can be difficult to learn. Part of it is, of course, the complexity of color, but it is also because it takes some time to understand why some colors work together and some don’t and why mixing color can be so hit and miss. In other words, it takes work to understand color. Not everybody wants to put in a lot of work on this and I understand that, but if you do make the effort, the reward will be tremendous!
Your mission, if you choose to accept it … is up to you.
My approach to teaching design for most of the past decade has been based on the concept of osmosis and I don’t plan on changing that overmuch. So, I’m going to tell you about the concepts and show you examples and encourage you to look at the world around you in terms of those new (or maybe not so new) ideas. If you read the blog every week, these concepts will eventually just sink in. It might take some time but you’ll get there. On the other hand, put a bit of work in now and you’ll be masterfully mixing color and creating gorgeous color palettes by the end of the summer!
So that’s my proposal. I’m going to teach you color over the next couple months and you can just observe and soak it up or roll up your sleeves and get hands-on, as and when it suits you. But if you keep up with even just the reading, you’ll be steps ahead of where you are now come the fall.
Deal? Okay, so let’s start with a real basic, rather convoluted, but surprisingly fascinating concept – hue, the basis of all color.

Jan Montarsi, Mica mush pendant created with gold polymer and the cyan, magenta and yellow equivalents in alcohol ink (Pinata’s Senorita magenta, Baja blue, and Sunbright yellow.) www.flickr.com/photos/jembox/
It’s Up to Hue
Hue is what most people think of first when they think of color and color theory – that which makes up the purest aspect of color. Scientifically speaking, each hue is a particular point on the color spectrum, but I think it’s best to think of hue as a category. Red is not just fire engine red, right? It’s also brick and burgundy and rose. It’s a range, a grouping that we use to organize the myriad options we have in color.
Why think of the names of pure color as categories? Because each of those categories represent a specific set of things to us. Our response to color is primarily determined by our culture but all colors make some level of emotional and psychological connection which, as creatives, we can use to communicate to the viewer of our work. Every one of the infinite number of colors available to us has its own specific response but it is certainly easier to start by understanding the characteristics of just a few categories each defining a specific range of color. You can then grow your knowledge from there.
So, I thought I’d have you learn a handful of color categories based on pure color hues for the purpose of communication in your work but I also need you to understand hue in terms of how you mix colors. Unfortunately, categories and mixing are not based on the same concepts so we are going to have to learn those separately. You see, while categories are about defining our response to color, mixing is based on science. In other words, one is based on an ever-changing landscape of personal and cultural understandings while the other is rooted in physics.
So, let’s start with science and look at the meaning of categories later. Mind you, this conversation may feel like a roller coaster at moments but buckle up and I think you’ll be surprised at what you’ll learn. At the very least, I have some surprising trivia not to mention a thrilling new position from which to work with color.
True Colors
Color theory, especially for visual creatives, really starts with the concept of primaries. Primaries are known as non-reducible colors because, by definition, they can’t be created from other colors. Strangely enough though, you won’t find just one set of primary hues that you can or need to work from. So, you see how color confusion starts from the beginning. Let me break it down for you and make it simple.
If you go by the definition of primaries being colors that can’t be created by other colors, then there are just two primary sets, one for each of the two different materials from which color can be created – light and pigment. Mixing light is used to create visuals on your computer screen or dramatic lighting on a theater stage, while pigment is what gives any object its color including colorants that give paint, chalk, clay, etc. their color. Both light and pigment primaries are based on the same thing – the spectrum of colors in the range of natural light that our eyes take in.
When mixing light, the three primaries used are red, green, and blue (a.k.a. RGB, that color mode digital photo editing software is always yammering on about). From those three, you can mix up any color of light you want but put all three together and you get white because white is the full light spectrum, like the sunlight. For that reason, RGB is known as an “additive” color model because you add parts of the spectrum to create a color of light for your eyes to take in.
Pigments, on the other hand, reflect just parts of the light spectrum back to our eyes (so if the pigment reflects only yellow, that’s what reaches our eyes and we see yellow) while absorbing the rest of the spectrum, effectively removing that part of the light that hit it the object from being reflected to our eyes. Because of this, pigment colors are referred to as subtractive color because we only see what’s left. Mix three completely pure pigment primaries and you end up with black which is the absence of light—those pigments collectively are able to absorb all parts of the light spectrum.
I know this is getting a little scientific but I just want you to have a basis for understanding why the colors on your computer screen can look so much different than colors in your physical world or in print. The additive versus subtractive properties of the two-color modes just don’t translate back and forth very well. That should take some of the pressure off of you though. Now you know that it’s not just you that can’t re-create any color in pigment based materials from something on-screen or your photographic skills alone aren’t what makes it so hard to take a digital photo with accurate colors. It’s just a crazy, mixed up color world.
Now to the truly mind-boggling stuff.
As far as pigment goes, most people have long been taught that the pigment primaries are red, yellow, and blue (RYB) even though there is no scientific basis for it. It’s just something a variety of Europeans arbitrarily developed based on the pigments they had available between the 17th and 19th centuries. And it worked, more or less, with paint. Oddly enough, around the same time, science was slowly coming to the conclusion that cyan, magenta, and yellow (CMY) are more precise primary colors for pigments but colorists in the art world didn’t consult the science of color physics. Plus, it wouldn’t be until the early 20th century that chemistry would provide the pure pigments needed to properly create visual work in CMY.
The more precise primaries were readily adopted by the printing industry in the early 1900s since this produced the brightest and broadest range of colors, but it was too late for western society’s language of, and associations with, color. Artists, designers, and psychologists had already established language and research including categories (yes, the categories we’ll be looking at) based on RYB. So, we are presently stuck with RYB when it comes to categories and communication. However, there is still a strong argument for learning and using CMY.
The Case for the Late Bloomers
If you are open to mixing with cyan, magenta, and yellow, you’ll likely find your color mixing is easier to predict and more saturated than through the use of RYB mixing. Just as the printing industry did. However, not all mediums for all brands make it easy to work in CMY versus RYB. In polymer, some brands are geared to CMY (such as Fimo Professional and Pardo), others seem to favor RYB (such as Kato and Cernit) while others aren’t geared to color mixing at all (such as Sculpey Souffle).
I, myself, have long been a convert to the CMY primary basis for mixing pigments of any kind but as a publisher, I’ve spent years working with printers which now uses CMY, plus “key”. (Key is black, as in black is the key plate that adds the detail in color printing’s four plate printing process, which is why print color is referred to as CMYK.) So, it wasn’t hard to break through the old lessons of RYB. And then there is the simple science – contrary to popular belief, red and blue can be mixed from other colors. I bet many of you find that hard to believe. Well, it’s not hard to prove. Here is the proof from my studio table:
Here are two sets of primaries and my mixes for their secondaries using the clay color on either side of them. I have Fimo in CMY with red, green and blue secondaries and Premo using RYB with green, purple and orange secondary mixes. I chose these sets in large part because that’s what I had on hand but also because Fimo set up the professional line based on CMY (although they call their cyan True Blue), and Premo has long supported RYB with their ultramarine blue, cadmium red, and cadmium yellow.
Note how much brighter and more saturated the CMY secondary colors I mixed are. Relative to the primaries, the mixes are neither toned down (losing saturation or purity) or darkened. The RYB delivers a decent orange but the green is quite toned down and dark and the purple looks practically black even though I went very heavy on the red and it’s nearly a wine color.
But here is what should really convince you that CMY mixing knowledge is something you need in your toolbox. Here is the same red and blue from the Fimo mix next to the blue and red Premo. Now do you believe that red and blue aren’t primaries that can’t be mixed from other colors?
Did that blow your mind a little bit? Do you feel the need for a glass of wine or comforting cup of tea? I remember when I first mixed blue and red from a CMY set of colors. I felt like I’d been duped all these years! But don’t take my word (or my pictures) for it. Try some of this color voodoo yourself.
Exercising Your Hues
This is a very simple exercise that will take you maybe 15 minutes but could be life changing for your color mixing skills. Like everything in art, skill is not about what your hands do but rather how you see things. I would ask that you see how this color mixing works with your own eyes and learn how the color in your preferred material and brand work depending on the primaries you choose to work with.
- Find a set of CMY and RYB in your clays, paints, inks or whatever you’d like to work with. You can even try a couple different mediums since the mediums act differently as well.
Here is a chart Maggie Maggio put together for the primaries of 3 major polymer clay brands to give you a guide for choosing primaries from your available clay colors. This was from an article titled, “21st Century Color” in the Winter 2015 – Hidden issue of The Polymer Arts, which talks more about the use of CMY for color mixing if you are only fascinated now.
- Once you have your two sets of primaries, just mix the following:
- Mix secondaries for CMY: red, blue, and green.
- Mix secondaries for RYB: orange, purple, and green.
I won’t be able to tell you how much you need to mix of each color to get those secondaries since every brand is different but you can start with equal amounts of both primaries, maybe adding a bit more of the lighter of the two. In my experience, yellow colorants are not as intense so you need more of it while blues (but not cyan) and magenta’s (and sometimes reds) can be quite intense. Just mix a small amount and then add what you need to adjust to what you think is a middle ground.
- Now, using the CMY set, create an orange and a purple:
- For orange, start with two parts magenta and one part yellow then adjust to make a satisfactory orange midway between the yellow and the CMY’s secondary red.
- For purple, start with two parts magenta and one part cyan then adjust to get a purple/violet midway between magenta and the CMY’s secondary blue.
- And lastly, try and create a cyan and magenta from the RYB set.
- For cyan, start with two parts blue and one part yellow then adjust to make a color midway between the blue and green.
- For magenta, start with two parts red and one part blue then adjust to get a color midway betweenpurple and red.
Which set of these were most successful? Of course, I expect the CMY to make those secondaries easily but the RYB results could go either way, depending on the RYB colors you used.
Also compare the orange and purple from the CMY set to the RYB set. Which do you prefer? And what have you learned that you didn’t expect?
They’re all good and useful colors no matter what they are mixed from. I find that mixing with RYB lend itself well to organic color palettes since those old primaries basically have a built in neutralizer (the addition of a complementary color) since they aren’t pure hues. That keeps the mixes from feeling too bright or artificial. But when I want bright, I stick with CMY or find a pre-made color that’s close so I only have to add tiny amounts of another color if it needs any tweaking.
Are you more comfortable with the idea of working with CMY primary hues? Really, all you’re doing is switching up your blue and red a tad from the old classic trio. Favor a blue that leans slightly towards green rather than purple and a red that leans some towards hot pink. It’s just a slight shift on the color wheel. It does, however, help if you use a CMY color wheel since magentas and cyans don’t sit equidistant from yellow on an RYB color wheel. Here is one you can print off for now.
Using a different wheel will also help with things we’ll be talking about next week – secondary, tertiary, and complementary colors. But don’t fret. The CMY color wheels work the same as RYB but they’ll give you new and exciting color palette combinations to contemplate. So, if you can spend the week playing with and getting used to the idea of a little CMY into your life, you will have just added and organized an entire arsenal of color mixing that you didn’t have before. How wild is that?
If you do the color mixing exercises, I would absolutely love to see photos of your results and thoughts from you. Please let me know what brands and colors you used and how you felt about your results. If I get enough, I’ll share them next week or on my social media pages if you give me permission. Send them to me directly by responding to this if you get this by email or by going to the website here.
Can You Help?
I’ll try not to be too overt about asking for support but like every business, there are non-negotiable costs, mostly services that help get content to you. So, if you like the content and are able to help keep me going, pop over to the shop and pick up books and back issues missing from your library, gift a publication to a struggling polymer friend (I’ll include a card or can even sign the publication – leave instructions in the “Order notes” section after the shipping address), or contribute any amount you wish with the contribute options here. Also, patronize my advertisers –they do help spread the word about what I’m doing as well as funding some of what I do.
Otherwise, I hope you simply enjoy the learning. Have a colorful week!
Translucent Play, in 3 parts. Pt.3
November 16, 2016
Inspirational Art
Here is one more day of autumnal translucent beauties. Eva Haskova actually created these last April but they seem an appropriate homage to our quickly fading Fall season.
These bracelets are fairly simple in concept but so intriguing with their gradation of luminous colors and the short open tubes that allow a glimpse of the soft white of their translucent base. The color selection, similar to the piece by Jan Montarsi we saw last week, wisely includes a touch of cool color among all the rich warm hues to balance the intensity of the palette.
Holes and spaces seem to be dominating Eva’s explorations lately. You can see the evidence of this on her Facebook page as well as admire her other work on her Flickr photostream or her website.
Inspirational Challenge of the Day: Create something in either a completely cool palette or a wholly warm palette. Once you have most of the design planned or executed, try inserting colors of the other temperature. How does that change the feeling of the piece when you add just a little of the opposing color temperature? How about if you add a lot? Play with the contrast until you have something that speaks to you.
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Translucent Play, in 3 parts. Pt.1
November 7, 2016
Inspirational Art
After finding the beautiful textured glass for Friday’s post, I noticed that my folder of art work to consider for blogs was full of translucent pieces, and almost all of them in the same basic color palette and all of them are fairly recent shares on Facebook. It could be because of the season but I don’t know how relevant that becomes when you set them side by side. So I thought I’d basically do that, presenting three pieces that are similar in color and using translucent clay but we’ll look at how it is used to create different moods.
This first one is a set of earrings by Jan Montarsi. The autumnal palette is there but the primarily vertical composition of the set, both in the direction of the swathes of color and the stacked squares lean towards a strong, organized atmosphere. Until you get to the visual and tactile texture. That reminds me of an energetic kid in a sandbox digging hole after hole. The circular shapes are jauntily wonky with colors blurring into each other, all with a very natural and organic feel. It says “I keep on the path but like to dance a bit on the way.” Well, that’s my read.
Jan created these in a class taught by Marie Segal at the annual Kentucky/Tennessee guild retreat this last month. He used his own ‘organic’ extruded cane technique as well. I guess he expected the colors to come out more muted because in the comments he made this observation:
“The amazing thing is the colors of these translucent clays were diluted by at least half with regular translucent clay and then placed on a translucent background and the color is still vibrant.” It’s good to know just how rich those packaged translucent colors can be.
Jan is our Americas Regional President for the International Polymer Clay Association as well as being an active clayer and contributor to a variety of information and educational outlets including The Polymer Arts magazine. His work can be found on Facebook and on Flickr.
Inspirational Challenge of the Day: Pick a set of colors and then pick forms that seem quite disparate from the color palette you picked. Light and bright colors combined with severely geometric shapes or dark, rich colors with light hearted squiggles. What does the contrast in shape do to the mood of the colors and vice versa? What can you add in terms of texture, line, or motifs that will further illustrate the mood you see within that juxtaposition of disparate elements?
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Like this blog? Lend your support with a purchase of The Polymer Arts magazine and visit our partners.
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Alcohol Primaries
March 11, 2015
Inspirational Art
I think the brightest article we had in the spring 2015 issue had to be Jan Montarsi’s “Expanding Your Color Range with Alcohol Inks”. In this article, Jan not only shows us the best way to use alcohol ink as a colorant for the clay, but also gives us recipes and insights into developing a pearl and translucent clay color range far beyond what is available straight out of the package. Additionally, he offered a great Skinner blend style technique for creating graduated colors with alcohol inks. He has based his newest color expansion on a set of alcohol inks he has been able to determine will work as wonderful primaries for color mixing. It’s an intensely packed article that color junkies really need to get their hands on.
If you have been watching Jan throughout the last four plus years, you’ve seen the intense and gorgeous pearl colors he creates and combines within his various techniques. Because of everything Jan stuffed into this article, we didn’t have room for a show of his work using this coloring approach, so I thought I’d share a bit more of his range today. This necklace was a test using extruded pearl clays. I wish my tests turned out this luscious. This is not even a recent example of where he has gone with his coloring and pearl techniques, but it is a beautiful show of just what can be done by mixing a wider range of pearl colors together.
To see the wider range of Jan’s work, take some time and visit his Flickr photostream. Then be sure to read the article and set aside some exploration time with alcohol inks!
If you like this blog, support The Polymer Arts projects with a subscription or an issue of The Polymer Arts magazine as well as supporting our advertising partners.
Limited Mokume
November 25, 2014
Inspirational Art
Another classic color palette that works really well with mokume is the limited color palette. Limiting the colors to just two or three (and keeping them either analogous or give one a real contrast from the rest) will force you to work with value (how light or dark a color is) and composition. Too much color can be distracting in your composition and overpower your other other design elements.
In this extruded polymer mokume, Jan Montarsi uses a pink and peach color with white. There is very little contrast in the couple of colors. The colors are analogous, and the most value contrast is with the white, which is not a color at all. This minimal color set forces Jan to work with other elements like the intriguing layering and shapes within his pendant here.
The extruded mokume technique offers a lot of opportunity for the exploratory clayer. If you haven’t worked with it, it’s great fun, it can use up scrap clay if you like and creates a more definite and more controllable pattern. For a tutorial on the extruded mokume method, take a look at Kristie Foss’ nice tutorial here. And for more great mokume and beautiful finishes, have fun roaming Jan’s Flickr pages.
If you like this blog, support The Polymer Arts projects with a subscription or issue of The Polymer Arts magazine as well as supporting our advertising partners.
Bails on the Backside
February 23, 2013
Inspirational Art
If you’ve gotten your latest issue of The Polymer Arts magazine (yes, I know many of you are still waiting for it to come in the mail … they just went out this past week so give them a little time but they will be there soon!) you probably saw the article “Back Stories” which Jan Montarsi put together, soliciting a number of artists to tell why and how they treat the back sides of their work for a professional and well finished look. Jan’s penchant for doing all things well shows in his own carefully finished pieces and simple but elegant ideas such as these backside bails.
Jan has several shots of what he does with just a jump ring and a little clay on his Flickr page. Heading on over to his pages also gives you a chance to ogle his beautiful mica mush pendants (seen here) and other beauties. Don’t you just love the colors and shimmer? Jan’s Flickr pages are a treasure of color and fun pieces so hopefully you can take a little time to wander around there and check out his work.
If you haven’t received your latest issue of The Polymer Arts as a digital subscriber, check your spam/junk mail folders first as they do sometimes get shuffled off there. You can also write me at connect@thepolymerarts.com to inquire. Please be patient about print issues arriving … they are on thier way. If you need to order yourself a digital or print copy of the Spring 2013 Stories themed issue or would like a subscription, that can all be done here: http://www.thepolymerarts.com/Subscribe.html

Amber Elledge used Premo’s fuchsia, cobalt, zinc yellow and white to mix all these brilliant colors. www.facebook.com/starlessclay/
Welcome to the first week of the new incarnation of the Virtual Art Box. I’m not going to continue referring to it as such since the contents will be spread out over the weeks instead of packaged (boxed) but for those of you who have been with me since the inception of the VAB, know that you’ll get the same design lessons and ideas to improve your skills and artistic knowledge that you had when you were getting this as part of the VAB membership. For those of you who have only been joining me for the weekly blog, you’re in for quite the treat if you have any curiosity and desire to further understand how design works in creating craft.
I think you’ll be delighted to know that were going to start this new iteration of the VAB focused on color. I knew the color content couldn’t be just one article and a few nudges though. Nope. Color is far too multifaceted. It is easily the most nuanced and intricate of all design elements. I could spend the rest of the year just talking about color. I mean, just think about it … is there any other design element for which entire books are written? And so many? Well, not that I know of.
But it’s not just that there is a lot to talk about with color. The reason there are so many books, classes, and websites about color is because it can be difficult to learn. Part of it is, of course, the complexity of color, but it is also because it takes some time to understand why some colors work together and some don’t and why mixing color can be so hit and miss. In other words, it takes work to understand color. Not everybody wants to put in a lot of work on this and I understand that, but if you do make the effort, the reward will be tremendous!
Your mission, if you choose to accept it … is up to you.
My approach to teaching design for most of the past decade has been based on the concept of osmosis and I don’t plan on changing that overmuch. So, I’m going to tell you about the concepts and show you examples and encourage you to look at the world around you in terms of those new (or maybe not so new) ideas. If you read the blog every week, these concepts will eventually just sink in. It might take some time but you’ll get there. On the other hand, put a bit of work in now and you’ll be masterfully mixing color and creating gorgeous color palettes by the end of the summer!
So that’s my proposal. I’m going to teach you color over the next couple months and you can just observe and soak it up or roll up your sleeves and get hands-on, as and when it suits you. But if you keep up with even just the reading, you’ll be steps ahead of where you are now come the fall.
Deal? Okay, so let’s start with a real basic, rather convoluted, but surprisingly fascinating concept – hue, the basis of all color.

Jan Montarsi, Mica mush pendant created with gold polymer and the cyan, magenta and yellow equivalents in alcohol ink (Pinata’s Senorita magenta, Baja blue, and Sunbright yellow.) www.flickr.com/photos/jembox/
It’s Up to Hue
Hue is what most people think of first when they think of color and color theory – that which makes up the purest aspect of color. Scientifically speaking, each hue is a particular point on the color spectrum, but I think it’s best to think of hue as a category. Red is not just fire engine red, right? It’s also brick and burgundy and rose. It’s a range, a grouping that we use to organize the myriad options we have in color.
Why think of the names of pure color as categories? Because each of those categories represent a specific set of things to us. Our response to color is primarily determined by our culture but all colors make some level of emotional and psychological connection which, as creatives, we can use to communicate to the viewer of our work. Every one of the infinite number of colors available to us has its own specific response but it is certainly easier to start by understanding the characteristics of just a few categories each defining a specific range of color. You can then grow your knowledge from there.
So, I thought I’d have you learn a handful of color categories based on pure color hues for the purpose of communication in your work but I also need you to understand hue in terms of how you mix colors. Unfortunately, categories and mixing are not based on the same concepts so we are going to have to learn those separately. You see, while categories are about defining our response to color, mixing is based on science. In other words, one is based on an ever-changing landscape of personal and cultural understandings while the other is rooted in physics.
So, let’s start with science and look at the meaning of categories later. Mind you, this conversation may feel like a roller coaster at moments but buckle up and I think you’ll be surprised at what you’ll learn. At the very least, I have some surprising trivia not to mention a thrilling new position from which to work with color.
True Colors
Color theory, especially for visual creatives, really starts with the concept of primaries. Primaries are known as non-reducible colors because, by definition, they can’t be created from other colors. Strangely enough though, you won’t find just one set of primary hues that you can or need to work from. So, you see how color confusion starts from the beginning. Let me break it down for you and make it simple.
If you go by the definition of primaries being colors that can’t be created by other colors, then there are just two primary sets, one for each of the two different materials from which color can be created – light and pigment. Mixing light is used to create visuals on your computer screen or dramatic lighting on a theater stage, while pigment is what gives any object its color including colorants that give paint, chalk, clay, etc. their color. Both light and pigment primaries are based on the same thing – the spectrum of colors in the range of natural light that our eyes take in.
When mixing light, the three primaries used are red, green, and blue (a.k.a. RGB, that color mode digital photo editing software is always yammering on about). From those three, you can mix up any color of light you want but put all three together and you get white because white is the full light spectrum, like the sunlight. For that reason, RGB is known as an “additive” color model because you add parts of the spectrum to create a color of light for your eyes to take in.
Pigments, on the other hand, reflect just parts of the light spectrum back to our eyes (so if the pigment reflects only yellow, that’s what reaches our eyes and we see yellow) while absorbing the rest of the spectrum, effectively removing that part of the light that hit it the object from being reflected to our eyes. Because of this, pigment colors are referred to as subtractive color because we only see what’s left. Mix three completely pure pigment primaries and you end up with black which is the absence of light—those pigments collectively are able to absorb all parts of the light spectrum.
I know this is getting a little scientific but I just want you to have a basis for understanding why the colors on your computer screen can look so much different than colors in your physical world or in print. The additive versus subtractive properties of the two-color modes just don’t translate back and forth very well. That should take some of the pressure off of you though. Now you know that it’s not just you that can’t re-create any color in pigment based materials from something on-screen or your photographic skills alone aren’t what makes it so hard to take a digital photo with accurate colors. It’s just a crazy, mixed up color world.
Now to the truly mind-boggling stuff.
As far as pigment goes, most people have long been taught that the pigment primaries are red, yellow, and blue (RYB) even though there is no scientific basis for it. It’s just something a variety of Europeans arbitrarily developed based on the pigments they had available between the 17th and 19th centuries. And it worked, more or less, with paint. Oddly enough, around the same time, science was slowly coming to the conclusion that cyan, magenta, and yellow (CMY) are more precise primary colors for pigments but colorists in the art world didn’t consult the science of color physics. Plus, it wouldn’t be until the early 20th century that chemistry would provide the pure pigments needed to properly create visual work in CMY.
The more precise primaries were readily adopted by the printing industry in the early 1900s since this produced the brightest and broadest range of colors, but it was too late for western society’s language of, and associations with, color. Artists, designers, and psychologists had already established language and research including categories (yes, the categories we’ll be looking at) based on RYB. So, we are presently stuck with RYB when it comes to categories and communication. However, there is still a strong argument for learning and using CMY.
The Case for the Late Bloomers
If you are open to mixing with cyan, magenta, and yellow, you’ll likely find your color mixing is easier to predict and more saturated than through the use of RYB mixing. Just as the printing industry did. However, not all mediums for all brands make it easy to work in CMY versus RYB. In polymer, some brands are geared to CMY (such as Fimo Professional and Pardo), others seem to favor RYB (such as Kato and Cernit) while others aren’t geared to color mixing at all (such as Sculpey Souffle).
I, myself, have long been a convert to the CMY primary basis for mixing pigments of any kind but as a publisher, I’ve spent years working with printers which now uses CMY, plus “key”. (Key is black, as in black is the key plate that adds the detail in color printing’s four plate printing process, which is why print color is referred to as CMYK.) So, it wasn’t hard to break through the old lessons of RYB. And then there is the simple science – contrary to popular belief, red and blue can be mixed from other colors. I bet many of you find that hard to believe. Well, it’s not hard to prove. Here is the proof from my studio table:
Here are two sets of primaries and my mixes for their secondaries using the clay color on either side of them. I have Fimo in CMY with red, green and blue secondaries and Premo using RYB with green, purple and orange secondary mixes. I chose these sets in large part because that’s what I had on hand but also because Fimo set up the professional line based on CMY (although they call their cyan True Blue), and Premo has long supported RYB with their ultramarine blue, cadmium red, and cadmium yellow.
Note how much brighter and more saturated the CMY secondary colors I mixed are. Relative to the primaries, the mixes are neither toned down (losing saturation or purity) or darkened. The RYB delivers a decent orange but the green is quite toned down and dark and the purple looks practically black even though I went very heavy on the red and it’s nearly a wine color.
But here is what should really convince you that CMY mixing knowledge is something you need in your toolbox. Here is the same red and blue from the Fimo mix next to the blue and red Premo. Now do you believe that red and blue aren’t primaries that can’t be mixed from other colors?
Did that blow your mind a little bit? Do you feel the need for a glass of wine or comforting cup of tea? I remember when I first mixed blue and red from a CMY set of colors. I felt like I’d been duped all these years! But don’t take my word (or my pictures) for it. Try some of this color voodoo yourself.
Exercising Your Hues
This is a very simple exercise that will take you maybe 15 minutes but could be life changing for your color mixing skills. Like everything in art, skill is not about what your hands do but rather how you see things. I would ask that you see how this color mixing works with your own eyes and learn how the color in your preferred material and brand work depending on the primaries you choose to work with.
- Find a set of CMY and RYB in your clays, paints, inks or whatever you’d like to work with. You can even try a couple different mediums since the mediums act differently as well.
Here is a chart Maggie Maggio put together for the primaries of 3 major polymer clay brands to give you a guide for choosing primaries from your available clay colors. This was from an article titled, “21st Century Color” in the Winter 2015 – Hidden issue of The Polymer Arts, which talks more about the use of CMY for color mixing if you are only fascinated now.
- Once you have your two sets of primaries, just mix the following:
- Mix secondaries for CMY: red, blue, and green.
- Mix secondaries for RYB: orange, purple, and green.
I won’t be able to tell you how much you need to mix of each color to get those secondaries since every brand is different but you can start with equal amounts of both primaries, maybe adding a bit more of the lighter of the two. In my experience, yellow colorants are not as intense so you need more of it while blues (but not cyan) and magenta’s (and sometimes reds) can be quite intense. Just mix a small amount and then add what you need to adjust to what you think is a middle ground.
- Now, using the CMY set, create an orange and a purple:
- For orange, start with two parts magenta and one part yellow then adjust to make a satisfactory orange midway between the yellow and the CMY’s secondary red.
- For purple, start with two parts magenta and one part cyan then adjust to get a purple/violet midway between magenta and the CMY’s secondary blue.
- And lastly, try and create a cyan and magenta from the RYB set.
- For cyan, start with two parts blue and one part yellow then adjust to make a color midway between the blue and green.
- For magenta, start with two parts red and one part blue then adjust to get a color midway betweenpurple and red.
Which set of these were most successful? Of course, I expect the CMY to make those secondaries easily but the RYB results could go either way, depending on the RYB colors you used.
Also compare the orange and purple from the CMY set to the RYB set. Which do you prefer? And what have you learned that you didn’t expect?
They’re all good and useful colors no matter what they are mixed from. I find that mixing with RYB lend itself well to organic color palettes since those old primaries basically have a built in neutralizer (the addition of a complementary color) since they aren’t pure hues. That keeps the mixes from feeling too bright or artificial. But when I want bright, I stick with CMY or find a pre-made color that’s close so I only have to add tiny amounts of another color if it needs any tweaking.
Are you more comfortable with the idea of working with CMY primary hues? Really, all you’re doing is switching up your blue and red a tad from the old classic trio. Favor a blue that leans slightly towards green rather than purple and a red that leans some towards hot pink. It’s just a slight shift on the color wheel. It does, however, help if you use a CMY color wheel since magentas and cyans don’t sit equidistant from yellow on an RYB color wheel. Here is one you can print off for now.
Using a different wheel will also help with things we’ll be talking about next week – secondary, tertiary, and complementary colors. But don’t fret. The CMY color wheels work the same as RYB but they’ll give you new and exciting color palette combinations to contemplate. So, if you can spend the week playing with and getting used to the idea of a little CMY into your life, you will have just added and organized an entire arsenal of color mixing that you didn’t have before. How wild is that?
If you do the color mixing exercises, I would absolutely love to see photos of your results and thoughts from you. Please let me know what brands and colors you used and how you felt about your results. If I get enough, I’ll share them next week or on my social media pages if you give me permission. Send them to me directly by responding to this if you get this by email or by going to the website here.
Can You Help?
I’ll try not to be too overt about asking for support but like every business, there are non-negotiable costs, mostly services that help get content to you. So, if you like the content and are able to help keep me going, pop over to the shop and pick up books and back issues missing from your library, gift a publication to a struggling polymer friend (I’ll include a card or can even sign the publication – leave instructions in the “Order notes” section after the shipping address), or contribute any amount you wish with the contribute options here. Also, patronize my advertisers –they do help spread the word about what I’m doing as well as funding some of what I do.
Otherwise, I hope you simply enjoy the learning. Have a colorful week!
Here is one more day of autumnal translucent beauties. Eva Haskova actually created these last April but they seem an appropriate homage to our quickly fading Fall season.
These bracelets are fairly simple in concept but so intriguing with their gradation of luminous colors and the short open tubes that allow a glimpse of the soft white of their translucent base. The color selection, similar to the piece by Jan Montarsi we saw last week, wisely includes a touch of cool color among all the rich warm hues to balance the intensity of the palette.
Holes and spaces seem to be dominating Eva’s explorations lately. You can see the evidence of this on her Facebook page as well as admire her other work on her Flickr photostream or her website.
Inspirational Challenge of the Day: Create something in either a completely cool palette or a wholly warm palette. Once you have most of the design planned or executed, try inserting colors of the other temperature. How does that change the feeling of the piece when you add just a little of the opposing color temperature? How about if you add a lot? Play with the contrast until you have something that speaks to you.
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After finding the beautiful textured glass for Friday’s post, I noticed that my folder of art work to consider for blogs was full of translucent pieces, and almost all of them in the same basic color palette and all of them are fairly recent shares on Facebook. It could be because of the season but I don’t know how relevant that becomes when you set them side by side. So I thought I’d basically do that, presenting three pieces that are similar in color and using translucent clay but we’ll look at how it is used to create different moods.
This first one is a set of earrings by Jan Montarsi. The autumnal palette is there but the primarily vertical composition of the set, both in the direction of the swathes of color and the stacked squares lean towards a strong, organized atmosphere. Until you get to the visual and tactile texture. That reminds me of an energetic kid in a sandbox digging hole after hole. The circular shapes are jauntily wonky with colors blurring into each other, all with a very natural and organic feel. It says “I keep on the path but like to dance a bit on the way.” Well, that’s my read.
Jan created these in a class taught by Marie Segal at the annual Kentucky/Tennessee guild retreat this last month. He used his own ‘organic’ extruded cane technique as well. I guess he expected the colors to come out more muted because in the comments he made this observation:
“The amazing thing is the colors of these translucent clays were diluted by at least half with regular translucent clay and then placed on a translucent background and the color is still vibrant.” It’s good to know just how rich those packaged translucent colors can be.
Jan is our Americas Regional President for the International Polymer Clay Association as well as being an active clayer and contributor to a variety of information and educational outlets including The Polymer Arts magazine. His work can be found on Facebook and on Flickr.
Inspirational Challenge of the Day: Pick a set of colors and then pick forms that seem quite disparate from the color palette you picked. Light and bright colors combined with severely geometric shapes or dark, rich colors with light hearted squiggles. What does the contrast in shape do to the mood of the colors and vice versa? What can you add in terms of texture, line, or motifs that will further illustrate the mood you see within that juxtaposition of disparate elements?
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I think the brightest article we had in the spring 2015 issue had to be Jan Montarsi’s “Expanding Your Color Range with Alcohol Inks”. In this article, Jan not only shows us the best way to use alcohol ink as a colorant for the clay, but also gives us recipes and insights into developing a pearl and translucent clay color range far beyond what is available straight out of the package. Additionally, he offered a great Skinner blend style technique for creating graduated colors with alcohol inks. He has based his newest color expansion on a set of alcohol inks he has been able to determine will work as wonderful primaries for color mixing. It’s an intensely packed article that color junkies really need to get their hands on.
If you have been watching Jan throughout the last four plus years, you’ve seen the intense and gorgeous pearl colors he creates and combines within his various techniques. Because of everything Jan stuffed into this article, we didn’t have room for a show of his work using this coloring approach, so I thought I’d share a bit more of his range today. This necklace was a test using extruded pearl clays. I wish my tests turned out this luscious. This is not even a recent example of where he has gone with his coloring and pearl techniques, but it is a beautiful show of just what can be done by mixing a wider range of pearl colors together.
To see the wider range of Jan’s work, take some time and visit his Flickr photostream. Then be sure to read the article and set aside some exploration time with alcohol inks!
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Another classic color palette that works really well with mokume is the limited color palette. Limiting the colors to just two or three (and keeping them either analogous or give one a real contrast from the rest) will force you to work with value (how light or dark a color is) and composition. Too much color can be distracting in your composition and overpower your other other design elements.
In this extruded polymer mokume, Jan Montarsi uses a pink and peach color with white. There is very little contrast in the couple of colors. The colors are analogous, and the most value contrast is with the white, which is not a color at all. This minimal color set forces Jan to work with other elements like the intriguing layering and shapes within his pendant here.
The extruded mokume technique offers a lot of opportunity for the exploratory clayer. If you haven’t worked with it, it’s great fun, it can use up scrap clay if you like and creates a more definite and more controllable pattern. For a tutorial on the extruded mokume method, take a look at Kristie Foss’ nice tutorial here. And for more great mokume and beautiful finishes, have fun roaming Jan’s Flickr pages.
If you like this blog, support The Polymer Arts projects with a subscription or issue of The Polymer Arts magazine as well as supporting our advertising partners.
If you’ve gotten your latest issue of The Polymer Arts magazine (yes, I know many of you are still waiting for it to come in the mail … they just went out this past week so give them a little time but they will be there soon!) you probably saw the article “Back Stories” which Jan Montarsi put together, soliciting a number of artists to tell why and how they treat the back sides of their work for a professional and well finished look. Jan’s penchant for doing all things well shows in his own carefully finished pieces and simple but elegant ideas such as these backside bails.
Jan has several shots of what he does with just a jump ring and a little clay on his Flickr page. Heading on over to his pages also gives you a chance to ogle his beautiful mica mush pendants (seen here) and other beauties. Don’t you just love the colors and shimmer? Jan’s Flickr pages are a treasure of color and fun pieces so hopefully you can take a little time to wander around there and check out his work.
If you haven’t received your latest issue of The Polymer Arts as a digital subscriber, check your spam/junk mail folders first as they do sometimes get shuffled off there. You can also write me at connect@thepolymerarts.com to inquire. Please be patient about print issues arriving … they are on thier way. If you need to order yourself a digital or print copy of the Spring 2013 Stories themed issue or would like a subscription, that can all be done here: http://www.thepolymerarts.com/Subscribe.html
























