Coloring Translucent Clay
November 23, 2013
Inspirational Art
Getting back to using alcohol ink as a colorant, the primary use for many polymer clayers, I thought we ought to touch on the proper way to color not just liquid polymer but translucent clay.
To get to the heart of the matter, the main thing you want to remember when using alcohol ink to mix into liquid or solid polymer is to let the alcohol evaporate before mixing it in. That’s the only real rule. Drop a bit of LPC on a ceramic tile, drip a bit of alcohol ink in your chosen color into the LPC, and then leave it be for at least 10 minutes. I’ll usually let it set a bit longer to be sure there’s nothing but the dye left before I start mixing. You do the same with solid polymer. Just drip and drop, wait and mix.
Ginger Davis Allman put together a great in-depth post on mixing the ink into translucent clay earlier this year, including tips, tricks, judging color, and cautions. If the primary goal is to create great, truly translucent colored clay so you can make pieces like this necklace of Ginger’s, then you really should read the post.
Hope you’ve found this week’s ideas about what you can do with your alcohol inks inspiring, and I hope you get some time in to play with your new ideas this weekend!
If you enjoy this blog, help support The Polymer Arts projects plus get great polymer art information by purchasing The Polymer Arts magazine available in print or digital. www.thepolymerarts.com
Ink & Polymer Glazing
November 20, 2013
Inspirational Art
One of the wonderful things about polymer is that it is not ceramic; it’s not restricted by the limitations of mineral clays, the weight, the tricky kiln firing, and the uncertainty that is inherent in glazing. But the gloss and depth of those glazes can be so remarkable that, of course, we would try to imitate it in polymer!
I’ve seen quite a bit of faux ceramic glazing created with alcohol inks and liquid polymer clay. I don’t know of any other colorant that will work with LPC to give it that translucent and vibrant look. And I’ve yet to see anyone top the shimmer and depth of the work done by Debbie Crothers with her faux ceramic glazes. Look at these beads. A monochromatic, simple form, and yet just so intriguing and luscious.
It’s that texture peaking out from the clearer part of the glaze and the way the deep color is dripping over the form that makes these beads so, well, tasty! Oh … now I’m going to crave glazed berries or juicy, fruity, hard candies all day!
Debbie has been working with this effect for a few years and has it down perfectly, I think. Do hop on over to our Aussie sister’s Flickr page and take a gander at the other beads and pieces she uses this technique on. Just lovely work.
LPC Sheet Transfers
July 4, 2013
Inspirational Art
Apparently this is going to be a week of building on the post from the day before! Again, if you read yesterday’s post, you might be getting some bright ideas about how to use liquid polymer clay transfers. But wait … there’s more!
In the present Summer 2013 issue of The Polymer Arts, we have an article by Ann and Karen Mitchell on making polymer hats. Within that article are lots of tidbits on working with liquid polymer clay, particularly LPC sheets. These sheets can be made as large as your oven will allow and then can be cut up as needed. Or, if you follow Ann and Karen’s instructions for adding mesh or fabric, you can use it very much like fabric including stitching, punching, and folding as you would a heavy piece of cloth.
These techniques are nothing new to these two ladies or to any of you who have read their wonderful book Liquid Polymer Clay. They have been using this method of embedding fabric and making LPC transfer appliques to create pieces like this purse “comprised of clay fabric, hand drawn transfer elements appliqued onto silk taffeta on the bottom layer and silk organza on the top layer.”
If transfers with LPC have grabbed hold of your imagination, you should really get the Mitchell sisters’ book Liquid Polymer Clay or re-read it if you have it. In the meantime, I am going to go pretend I don’t work on holidays. It’s Independence Day here in the States and friends, barbecues, and fireworks are in store for us later. So I’m going to transfer my attention to something un-polymer. To all my stateside readers and friends, Happy 4th of July. Have a wonderful day and be safe.
Colored Pencil Transfers and More
July 3, 2013
Inspirational Art, Tips and Tricks
Were you intrigued yesterday by the possibilities of using colored pencil? Grab yourself a big box of Prismacolor pencils (or a comparable brand) and start doodling shapes and swirls, flowers and faces, tendrils and textures … anything you can think of. And yes, you can do this even if you don’t have a lot of drawing experience, and you’ll probably do it quite well. When you are playing with colored pencils, you are working primarily with the color (which you already do with polymer, right?) and can let the idea that you must sketch something particular fall away. Just let go and see what you have. Then pick a section of what you’ve drawn, cut it out and transfer it onto polymer. Quick and easy visual texture! From that you can cut, stamp, layer, embed, etc just like you would any other surface treated polymer sheet.
Another way to transfer you colored pencil masterpieces is to float liquid polymer clay (LPC) on the paper, bake or use a heat gun to cure it and then remove the paper from the cured LPC by peeling and using water to remove any that remains. The neat thing about using the LPC is that the image will have translucency wherever the pencil is light or absent. This can be applied to other surface-treated polymer clay sheets for intriguing layering of colors and textures.
Julia Sober used the LPC transfer of a colored pencil drawing laid over silver leaf to create this beautiful box.
The silver leaf does give the colors extra luminescence often associated with enamel work, which is probably why she called her application faux enamel. But other applications such as a pearl clay backing for light colored sketches or black for bright, densely colored drawings could be quite impressive as well. Once you have the LPC transfers done, you can hold them up to all kinds of backgrounds and see what kind of effect you have. Bring out your inner child with the colored pencils, and just play.
While Waiting for your Pardo Translucent Clay …
April 24, 2013
Inspirational Art
It’s funny how many comments and emails I got on Monday when I mentioned that I had untouched blocks of Pardo translucent clay in my studio. There is such a demand and yet so little available. I have had email conversations with a contact at Viva Decor but I never got a straight answer as to why its in such short supply or when we might expect to see it more readily available. So what’s a frustrated artist to do? As far as actually getting your hands on some, your best bet in the US seems to be getting on PolyClayPlay.com’s waiting list. (Is it any easier getting it in Europe by chance?)
In the meantime, I say go play with our other options. Pardo may be the clearest (so we’ve heard) but only in the clays themselves. The absolute clearest polymer you can work with is Fimo Decorating Gel. Although it can also be tough to locate in some places, it’s not impossible to get a hold of. (See our post last year regarding Fimo Gel and a false rumor; I listed places to find it.) You may not consider Fimo Gel to be a primary polymer to create forms with but with a little outside-the-box thinking, you’ll find you certainly can work with it as something other than an addition to the surface of clay.
Kathrin Neumaier has been playing extensively with both Pardo Translucent Art Clay and Fimo Gel, sometimes interchangeably. Here is a piece in Pardo Tranlucent clay (and what a fun piece!):
And here are basically the same forms but created in Fimo Gel:
So, yes, you can form pieces from liquid polymer and get a translucene as good if not better than with the elusive Pardo. And just think … there’s no conditioning!
The easiest way I found to work with liquid polymer as a form is to start out making sheets of cured lpc. You simply drizzle then lightly brush out the liquid polymer on a clean and very smooth, flat surface and bake it like that. A piece of tempered glass or polished sheet metal is an ideal surface. If you don’t have either, you can use a sheet of window glass (you can buy small panes at hardware stores or take the glass out of a picture frame) but you should put untempered glass into a cold oven and wait until it’s completely cooled before taking it out–rapid temperature changes can cause the glass to crack. (And tape up the raw glass edges with masking tape–let’s not cut ourselves!)
If the liquid polymer comes out of the oven still a little milky in spots wave a heat gun over it, keeping the heat a couple inches (50mm) away until it goes clear. (If you baked it on untempered glass, take it off the glass first.) Then you can cut whatever forms you want from that sheet. You can even add more liquid polymer to build it up or add color.
I would say about half the work I did in the first couple years I worked with polymer was created with lpc forms made this way and not just with Fimo Gel. After practicing for a bit, I could get any lpc to got completely clear. It just takes a little patience but its wonderful fun.
Kathrin has made all kinds of forms from liquid polymer including hollow beads and one piece collar necklaces. If you have the translucent bug, you need to take some time to browse through her Flickr pages for some inspiring ideas on what you might try while waiting for your Pardo.
Scribbles and Dots
December 18, 2012
Inspirational Art
A simple idea to share today–the use of liquid polymer as a textural medium applied with a free-form drawing approach. A nice, thick liquid polymer such as Fimo Deco Gel or Sculpey’s Bake and Bond will stay raised so that you can draw lines, squiggles, dots or whatever you desire onto the surface of your clay or the surface of anything you can then bake.
I remember seeing these pieces by Libby Mills some years ago but never got around to playing with the idea … but for some reason I’m thoroughly enamored of the idea this week and have been scribbling away.
You can see that Libby often colors her liquid polymer or burnishes it later on. Alcohol inks, oil paints and mica powders can be used to color your scribble medium.
My experiments with other liquid polymers lead me to discover you can actually scribble with them if you take a couple extra steps. I found that adding an abundance of powdered colorant such as pastels, iron oxides or mica powders can get thinner, self-leveling liquid polymers to stand up quite a bit … but only for a little while. They will eventually spread. However, if you use a baked piece of polymer and warm the clay first, the lpc will set on the clay at you scribble. I use my trusty hot plate/mug warmer to heat up the cured clay then, leaving the piece on the warmer, I can draw away. It even works on perpendicular surfaces. You can also warm the cured clay in the oven and then draw on it but you’ll need to work quickly before it cools down too much.
So what do you think? Time to put your scribbling skills to work?
Outside Inspiration:PMC & Enameling
November 9, 2012
Inspirational Art
Even though it may feel like it at times, we aren’t the only craft material that struggles with it being new in the art world. Precious metal clay and polymer are like cousins in that sense. They’re both part of a family of craft materials that still has to prove itself and is still being heavily experimented with.
Joy Funnell is extremely passionate about precious metal clay. Like polymer, there is still much to learn about how PMC can be worked and many persevering ideas about what you can and can’t do with it. Joy took on the myth that enamel was incompatible with PMC by creating pieces entirely made of silver clay with enamel. One of her signature techniques is Enameled Accents which creates jewel-like colors in fine silver wire outlines like in these beautiful masks below.
Of course, I saw this and thought, easy to translate to polymer! Using extruded polymer and colored liquid polymer, you could have the same colorful and delicate look. Or if into PMC but not sure you want to expand into enameling, LPC is an alternative to using enamel on PMC. Because some of us just do not need to add another art material to our repertoire!
Getting back to using alcohol ink as a colorant, the primary use for many polymer clayers, I thought we ought to touch on the proper way to color not just liquid polymer but translucent clay.
To get to the heart of the matter, the main thing you want to remember when using alcohol ink to mix into liquid or solid polymer is to let the alcohol evaporate before mixing it in. That’s the only real rule. Drop a bit of LPC on a ceramic tile, drip a bit of alcohol ink in your chosen color into the LPC, and then leave it be for at least 10 minutes. I’ll usually let it set a bit longer to be sure there’s nothing but the dye left before I start mixing. You do the same with solid polymer. Just drip and drop, wait and mix.
Ginger Davis Allman put together a great in-depth post on mixing the ink into translucent clay earlier this year, including tips, tricks, judging color, and cautions. If the primary goal is to create great, truly translucent colored clay so you can make pieces like this necklace of Ginger’s, then you really should read the post.
Hope you’ve found this week’s ideas about what you can do with your alcohol inks inspiring, and I hope you get some time in to play with your new ideas this weekend!
If you enjoy this blog, help support The Polymer Arts projects plus get great polymer art information by purchasing The Polymer Arts magazine available in print or digital. www.thepolymerarts.com
One of the wonderful things about polymer is that it is not ceramic; it’s not restricted by the limitations of mineral clays, the weight, the tricky kiln firing, and the uncertainty that is inherent in glazing. But the gloss and depth of those glazes can be so remarkable that, of course, we would try to imitate it in polymer!
I’ve seen quite a bit of faux ceramic glazing created with alcohol inks and liquid polymer clay. I don’t know of any other colorant that will work with LPC to give it that translucent and vibrant look. And I’ve yet to see anyone top the shimmer and depth of the work done by Debbie Crothers with her faux ceramic glazes. Look at these beads. A monochromatic, simple form, and yet just so intriguing and luscious.
It’s that texture peaking out from the clearer part of the glaze and the way the deep color is dripping over the form that makes these beads so, well, tasty! Oh … now I’m going to crave glazed berries or juicy, fruity, hard candies all day!
Debbie has been working with this effect for a few years and has it down perfectly, I think. Do hop on over to our Aussie sister’s Flickr page and take a gander at the other beads and pieces she uses this technique on. Just lovely work.
Read MoreApparently this is going to be a week of building on the post from the day before! Again, if you read yesterday’s post, you might be getting some bright ideas about how to use liquid polymer clay transfers. But wait … there’s more!
In the present Summer 2013 issue of The Polymer Arts, we have an article by Ann and Karen Mitchell on making polymer hats. Within that article are lots of tidbits on working with liquid polymer clay, particularly LPC sheets. These sheets can be made as large as your oven will allow and then can be cut up as needed. Or, if you follow Ann and Karen’s instructions for adding mesh or fabric, you can use it very much like fabric including stitching, punching, and folding as you would a heavy piece of cloth.
These techniques are nothing new to these two ladies or to any of you who have read their wonderful book Liquid Polymer Clay. They have been using this method of embedding fabric and making LPC transfer appliques to create pieces like this purse “comprised of clay fabric, hand drawn transfer elements appliqued onto silk taffeta on the bottom layer and silk organza on the top layer.”
If transfers with LPC have grabbed hold of your imagination, you should really get the Mitchell sisters’ book Liquid Polymer Clay or re-read it if you have it. In the meantime, I am going to go pretend I don’t work on holidays. It’s Independence Day here in the States and friends, barbecues, and fireworks are in store for us later. So I’m going to transfer my attention to something un-polymer. To all my stateside readers and friends, Happy 4th of July. Have a wonderful day and be safe.
Were you intrigued yesterday by the possibilities of using colored pencil? Grab yourself a big box of Prismacolor pencils (or a comparable brand) and start doodling shapes and swirls, flowers and faces, tendrils and textures … anything you can think of. And yes, you can do this even if you don’t have a lot of drawing experience, and you’ll probably do it quite well. When you are playing with colored pencils, you are working primarily with the color (which you already do with polymer, right?) and can let the idea that you must sketch something particular fall away. Just let go and see what you have. Then pick a section of what you’ve drawn, cut it out and transfer it onto polymer. Quick and easy visual texture! From that you can cut, stamp, layer, embed, etc just like you would any other surface treated polymer sheet.
Another way to transfer you colored pencil masterpieces is to float liquid polymer clay (LPC) on the paper, bake or use a heat gun to cure it and then remove the paper from the cured LPC by peeling and using water to remove any that remains. The neat thing about using the LPC is that the image will have translucency wherever the pencil is light or absent. This can be applied to other surface-treated polymer clay sheets for intriguing layering of colors and textures.
Julia Sober used the LPC transfer of a colored pencil drawing laid over silver leaf to create this beautiful box.
The silver leaf does give the colors extra luminescence often associated with enamel work, which is probably why she called her application faux enamel. But other applications such as a pearl clay backing for light colored sketches or black for bright, densely colored drawings could be quite impressive as well. Once you have the LPC transfers done, you can hold them up to all kinds of backgrounds and see what kind of effect you have. Bring out your inner child with the colored pencils, and just play.
It’s funny how many comments and emails I got on Monday when I mentioned that I had untouched blocks of Pardo translucent clay in my studio. There is such a demand and yet so little available. I have had email conversations with a contact at Viva Decor but I never got a straight answer as to why its in such short supply or when we might expect to see it more readily available. So what’s a frustrated artist to do? As far as actually getting your hands on some, your best bet in the US seems to be getting on PolyClayPlay.com’s waiting list. (Is it any easier getting it in Europe by chance?)
In the meantime, I say go play with our other options. Pardo may be the clearest (so we’ve heard) but only in the clays themselves. The absolute clearest polymer you can work with is Fimo Decorating Gel. Although it can also be tough to locate in some places, it’s not impossible to get a hold of. (See our post last year regarding Fimo Gel and a false rumor; I listed places to find it.) You may not consider Fimo Gel to be a primary polymer to create forms with but with a little outside-the-box thinking, you’ll find you certainly can work with it as something other than an addition to the surface of clay.
Kathrin Neumaier has been playing extensively with both Pardo Translucent Art Clay and Fimo Gel, sometimes interchangeably. Here is a piece in Pardo Tranlucent clay (and what a fun piece!):
And here are basically the same forms but created in Fimo Gel:
So, yes, you can form pieces from liquid polymer and get a translucene as good if not better than with the elusive Pardo. And just think … there’s no conditioning!
The easiest way I found to work with liquid polymer as a form is to start out making sheets of cured lpc. You simply drizzle then lightly brush out the liquid polymer on a clean and very smooth, flat surface and bake it like that. A piece of tempered glass or polished sheet metal is an ideal surface. If you don’t have either, you can use a sheet of window glass (you can buy small panes at hardware stores or take the glass out of a picture frame) but you should put untempered glass into a cold oven and wait until it’s completely cooled before taking it out–rapid temperature changes can cause the glass to crack. (And tape up the raw glass edges with masking tape–let’s not cut ourselves!)
If the liquid polymer comes out of the oven still a little milky in spots wave a heat gun over it, keeping the heat a couple inches (50mm) away until it goes clear. (If you baked it on untempered glass, take it off the glass first.) Then you can cut whatever forms you want from that sheet. You can even add more liquid polymer to build it up or add color.
I would say about half the work I did in the first couple years I worked with polymer was created with lpc forms made this way and not just with Fimo Gel. After practicing for a bit, I could get any lpc to got completely clear. It just takes a little patience but its wonderful fun.
Kathrin has made all kinds of forms from liquid polymer including hollow beads and one piece collar necklaces. If you have the translucent bug, you need to take some time to browse through her Flickr pages for some inspiring ideas on what you might try while waiting for your Pardo.
Read MoreA simple idea to share today–the use of liquid polymer as a textural medium applied with a free-form drawing approach. A nice, thick liquid polymer such as Fimo Deco Gel or Sculpey’s Bake and Bond will stay raised so that you can draw lines, squiggles, dots or whatever you desire onto the surface of your clay or the surface of anything you can then bake.
I remember seeing these pieces by Libby Mills some years ago but never got around to playing with the idea … but for some reason I’m thoroughly enamored of the idea this week and have been scribbling away.
You can see that Libby often colors her liquid polymer or burnishes it later on. Alcohol inks, oil paints and mica powders can be used to color your scribble medium.
My experiments with other liquid polymers lead me to discover you can actually scribble with them if you take a couple extra steps. I found that adding an abundance of powdered colorant such as pastels, iron oxides or mica powders can get thinner, self-leveling liquid polymers to stand up quite a bit … but only for a little while. They will eventually spread. However, if you use a baked piece of polymer and warm the clay first, the lpc will set on the clay at you scribble. I use my trusty hot plate/mug warmer to heat up the cured clay then, leaving the piece on the warmer, I can draw away. It even works on perpendicular surfaces. You can also warm the cured clay in the oven and then draw on it but you’ll need to work quickly before it cools down too much.
So what do you think? Time to put your scribbling skills to work?
Read MoreEven though it may feel like it at times, we aren’t the only craft material that struggles with it being new in the art world. Precious metal clay and polymer are like cousins in that sense. They’re both part of a family of craft materials that still has to prove itself and is still being heavily experimented with.
Joy Funnell is extremely passionate about precious metal clay. Like polymer, there is still much to learn about how PMC can be worked and many persevering ideas about what you can and can’t do with it. Joy took on the myth that enamel was incompatible with PMC by creating pieces entirely made of silver clay with enamel. One of her signature techniques is Enameled Accents which creates jewel-like colors in fine silver wire outlines like in these beautiful masks below.
Of course, I saw this and thought, easy to translate to polymer! Using extruded polymer and colored liquid polymer, you could have the same colorful and delicate look. Or if into PMC but not sure you want to expand into enameling, LPC is an alternative to using enamel on PMC. Because some of us just do not need to add another art material to our repertoire!
Read More