Colorfully Related
July 5, 2020
Inspirational Art
Vera of Handmade Blossom employs all major hues in this Rainbow Roses pendant.
How comfortable are you feeling about the terminology learned last week? Feel secure in your understanding of values, saturation, tints, shades, and tones? I do hope so because I am going to throw more terminology at you today but, thankfully, these will be pretty familiar to a lot of you although you might have felt uncertain or confused about them previously. For some of you, this will be brand-new which is super exciting and, in a way, it will be much easier for you to take it in, unencumbered by any previous confusion.
These concepts are standard color theory points within the old RYB color set that are also used when using CMY as the primaries. (If you don’t know about the RYB versus CMY situation please take a look at the post “Not the Hue You Know”. It’s a really interesting article, if I do say so myself!)
A wheel to reference as you read. Click to enlarge and open in another window.
Familial Color Relationships
So, if you have been reading my free posted lessons since the beginning of June, you have heard me talk about primary and secondary colors. These terms describe the relationship between colors but if you are going to get the most out of what you’ve been learning, you will need to know about a few more relationships that will be useful for both color mixing and choosing color palettes.
There are three standard terms used to define a kind of hierarchical order among hues that I think resemble a family. You can think of primaries as the elders, secondaries as their children, and tertiaries as their grandchildren.
Primary colors are the colors that cannot be mixed using other colors. On the color wheel we will be using, those three are Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow. Since, every color can be mixed from these three (this actually depends on the medium but let’s just go with it for now), they are extremely important and so are at the top of this hierarchy.
Secondary colors are those mixed using two primaries. On the CMY color wheel that is Red, Green, and Blue.
Tertiary colors are those made by mixing a primary and one of its two nearby secondary colors. These include yellow-green, green-cyan, blue-cyan, violet, red-magenta, and orange. You can see the predominance of hyphenated word descriptors for these colors but violet and orange have single word names since they were used on the RYB color wheel that was so prevalent for so many years as well as being identified wavelengths in the scientific world.
Now, for you purple lovers, let me make a side comment. I know, most of us are used to thinking and saying that purple comes between blue and magenta (or red) but purple is not actually a hue. The reason has to do with the light spectrum and the cones in our eyes and all kinds of scientific stuff I don’t think we need to get into. I did start talking in terms of purple earlier in the series of articles but that isn’t technically correct and because so many of you are now working off the CMY color wheel I recommended, and it refers to the color between magenta and blue as violet, I’m going to use the color name violet so as to not confuse too many people and because that really is the correct name.
So, these three types of hues – primaries (of which there are 3), secondaries (of which there are also 3), and tertiaries (of which there are 6) – do not, by far, encompass all the possible hues out there. They do, however, designate 12 useful portions of a color wheel that we can readily work with to identify color relationships necessary to the mixing and choosing of colors.
That was easy, right?
Color Combination Relations
Okay, so we just defined the metaphorical familial relationships between hues. Now, I want to talk about a different kind of relationship– the relationship between combinations of colors. We can think of these as cliques of friends. Just as some people get along with certain other people much better, certain colors get along with other colors much better. This is true for color palettes as well as for color mixing although maybe for color mixing we should think of it as team of coworkers where you put people (colors) together depending on what you need. Are my metaphors making any sense? I can only hope.
I’ll start you would just three color combination relationships – complementary, analogous, and split complementary. There are a number of other commonly used color relationships that fall under the friends/coworkers metaphor such as triads, tetrads, and squares but those won’t be important until we hit color palettes so we won’t muddle up your poor little brains with all that just yet. Plus, these are the only three that knee consideration in both palettes and mixing.
Complementary colors are those that are across the color wheel from each other. They are considered opposites and, if mixed together, they will include all three primaries in varying degrees. This is why compliments “tone” each other down instead of just creating a new hue as discussed last week. If you’re scratching your head, just look at the color wheel and look at any two complementary colors. Jot down what primary colors would make each of them and you’ll find that list would include one of each primary. You can also see the primaries included in each color on the outside edge of the Color Wheel Company’s color wheel.
Complementary violet and yellow-green are used in this polymer and gold ring by An Fen Kuo.
Analogous colors are those next to each other on the color wheel. Choosing 3-5 (out of our 12) colors in a row make for a harmonious color scheme.
Analogous range from green to yellow in this set by Jana Lehmann.
Split complementary colors refer to a color on that is next to a particular color’s complement.
Metal and enamel brooch by Marks Alexander with a blue cyan and its split complementaries of red and yellow
Now, why are these relationships important?
I am going to refer to these color relationships quite a bit when we get to color mixing and color palettes but let’s look at a bit of color mixing as a kind of demonstration. Don’t worry if this doesn’t sink in immediately. We will be going over this in more depth later. I have discovered in teaching that presenting the same thing several times in several different ways, especially over time, can really drive an idea home. So, here’s kind of a taster and then we will look delve into this again in the coming weeks.
Let’s say you’d like to make an olive green. You could just grab a green out of the bin an add a touch of black to it to make it darker and more neutral, right? Well, yes, you could but is it the olive you want? You may find that it still looks awfully, well, green, more like dark leaves than army jacket.
Below is a selectin of olive greens. Hold up the color wheel next to them. I think you’ll see that there is quite a bit of yellow in an olive green. Because of that, if the green you chose to start your color mixing is heavy on the cyan (leans towards blue) it will be hard to get to a satisfactory olive with just black. This is where prepackaged, already mixed, colors can be troublesome to mix with. I think you will find that mixing your own green, cyan and yellow, going heavy on the yellow, and then adding a bit of black will get you a nicer olive green.
If you want to get fancy with the color mixing, you might also try a touch of violet or magenta to “tone” down the color instead of depending wholly on the black to do it.
Now let’s see if things I have been saying are sticking with you. Look at the color wheel and then try to surmise why I suggested violet or magenta. What do you think?
Well, if you remember from last week’s discussion about tones, at mixing a little bit of a complementary color is what gives you a toned down color. So, violet works since it is the complement of a yellow-green but you can also use a color’s split compliments to tone it down which is one of the two reasons I suggested magenta as an option.
Perhaps you’ve put together the reason why this works from my earlier comment about why compliments tone things down. It’s because “toning down” is really all about the addition of the missing primary color that isn’t in the color you’re trying to tone down. Because of that, you can use any color that includes the missing primary, not just the complementary color.
So, a yellow-green has cyan and yellow in it but does not have any magenta in the mix, right? Therefore, you can actually tone it down with anything from orange to that indigo blue you see on the CMY color wheel. But why did I suggest magenta rather than violet? Well, I was thinking that maybe we don’t want to add too much more cyan to that olive green, in order to preserve more of that yellow in the yellow-green hue, and both violet and indigo blue have cyan in it. So, if you add a touch of magenta you, preserve more of the yellow. Of course, if you are yellow-green is yellower than you want, go for violator indigo. That will tone down the yellow a bit.
Here is another question for all you smarty-pants… Why do you think black, as discussed last week, is an option for toning down a color?
The answer is in what black is made of. If remember from way back in the first article in June, with pigments, black is the inclusion of all primary colors. So, if you had black, you are technically adding a missing primary to your color no matter what the color is. Right?
Isn’t it really cool how there is usually some pretty simple underlying reasoning behind all these color rules? Or maybe it’s just me. I always want to know why something works. If I know why I can remember it, use it, and abuse it as needed.
So, are you beginning to see why you would need to be familiar with where colors fall on the color wheel and how their relationships will inform your color mixing choices? Also knowing about these relationships makes remembering things like compliments easier – the complement to a primary is always a secondary and vice versa, and the complement of a tertiary color is always another tertiary. Easy stuff!
Explore Your Favorite Color Relationships
This week, if you want to explore these ideas further, just grab your color wheel (or view it here) and spend some lazy time looking it over and discovering more about how particular colors relate.
For instance, are you surprised the complement to red is cyan and not green? Orange and cyan blue actually are pretty familiar, aren’t they? And that indigo blue on the wheel is not so far off from purple so the purple-yellow complement combination you might have been acquainted with from the RYB color wheel also feels comfortably familiar.
Find a set or two of three analogous colors that have high contrast. Even though they are all next each other on the color wheel, that doesn’t mean they have the same or similar values, nor does it mean that it needs to look basically monochromatic. Can you find some analogous color combinations you like, ones that you might use in an upcoming project?
Find the key hue for some of your favorite color pairs. Are they complements? Or are they more of a split complement? Maybe you are into analogous colors? For instance, one of my favorite combos is royal purple and forest green. Those are violet and green key hues and are therefore a split complement.
Split compliments are actually really great pairings, especially in situations where you want color contrast but maybe not the drama of complete opposites. Identify a few more split complementary pairs on the color wheel that you find appealing.
Okay, I will leave you with this swirl of color information taking over your brain. Keep identifying colors you see around you, naming them as primary, secondary or tertiary colors so that, as we move along, the conversations we have will be easily and quickly grasped. Also, have fun finding color pairs out in the world or while you’re playing at your studio table, and again, identify them, when relevant (because there are other color combinations we haven’t hit on yet), as complementary, analogous, or split complementary. Because, next week, we start getting serious about mixing!
Support This Blog!
If you appreciate the articles and the work put into presenting these for you, and you are in a good financial position, you can help support my work by purchasing publications on the website or you can contribute in a one-time or monthly capacity.
The sale is still on for books and past Virtual Art Boxes so you can get that special pricing on publications as well! 20% off all books and 25% off VABs.
I’m trying to work up some special extras for my monetary contributors to show you how appreciative I am of your generosity! You all are amazing. Thank you so much!
The Keys to Color
June 28, 2020
Inspirational Art
Lampwork beads by Pikalda Phuengpong
Have you noticed that, in art, very few things exist or are created in a vacuum? In other words, every choice you make has an effect on all the other choices you have made or will make when designing and creating original works of art. So, if you are coming to my blog for the first time, you may want to read the last three weeks of posts first because each successive article builds off the last.
Last week we talked about color value and this week we’re going to talk about how you can change the value along with something called saturation. This will be a little heavy on terminology but it’s easy stuff and by the time you’re done reading, you will have quite the sophisticated color vocabulary.
I also want to speak for just a moment on the reason you would want to do this deep dive into color and design. Whether you create your own colors or simply choose colors from pre-mixed options, your choices are best ruled by your understanding of the characteristics of color. Of course, understanding color characteristics is essential in color mixing but choosing and identifying color requires the same knowledge especially when creating color palettes, analyzing your work (or the work of others), and correcting or improving your color choices.
Working with color, like anything else in design, is about the relationship between colors and between all the design elements. In design, we work with likeness and disparity. That’s really what all relationships are about, aren’t they? Think about your spouse or your best friend or the coworkers you like to hang around with. You have something in common, some area of your life that overlaps that you can share. But you also have differences. These differences make the relationship interesting, encourages curiosity and conversation, and allows each of you to fulfill different roles in the relationship. That’s how design works as well, including between colors.
So, if you keep in mind that these conversations are about those design relationships, I think you’ll start to see just how useful and essential these immersive color lessons are regardless of whether you makes your own colors, pick available colors, or simply want a better understanding of the art that you enjoy.
Saturation is Not Value
Now, let’s talk about value versus saturation. For some reason, these two concepts get confused a lot even though they are quite different. As you learned last week, value is the lightness or darkness of a color. Saturation, however, is about how intense the color is or how close it is to the unadulterated hue or “key” color, at least in regard to pigment. (This is dealt with a little bit differently when it comes to mixing light in RGB. Just thought you ought to know that in case you come across a definition that talks about saturation, brightness, and luminosity. That’s RGB stuff.)
So, let’s take a pure blue as an example of both high saturation and dark value. Take a look at the color wheel. True blue, in its most saturated and vivid form there on the outside ring of the color wheel, is far darker than pure yellow. You could make that blue as light in value as yellow by adding a lot of white to it but that would also change its saturation because the addition of white takes away from the purity of the hue, right? The addition of white in a color is called tint.
Now let’s take that yellow. If you wanted it to be as dark in value as the blue, you could add a lot of black, so much so that it would probably look gray with little yellow to be gleaned. This would both darken the value and desaturate it, a lot. The addition of black to a color is known as shade.
So that’s the thing with adding black or white to a color. It will desaturate a color but it also will make it lighter or darker in value. I bet that doesn’t fully clarify why value and saturation are so different since adding white or black changes the lightness or darkness (value) as well as the intensity of a color (saturation). Well, here’s the thing – you can, on the other hand, change the saturation without changing the value, just not with black or white.
Let’s look at the color red for moment. On the CMY color wheel, you can see that opposite red is cyan. They look to be about the same midrange color value, right? If you add a bit of cyan to the red that will reduce the saturation or purity of the red by altering its hue but it will not make a noticeable change to its value. If you got yourself one of those CMY color wheels, you’ll see on the front side there that each ring getting closer to the center shows what happens when you add 10%, 20%, 30%, or 40% of each hue’s complementary color. That kind of mix tones down the color which is why it is called a tone.
You can also tone down a color without changing its value by adding a gray that is the same value as the color. In fact, a fully desaturated color would be just gray. Or you can mix in a lighter or darker gray to make the color lighter or darker while toning it down but without muddying the key with its complement. A gray mixed with a color is also called tone.
So, you see, changing saturation can, but does not always, change value but changing the value will necessarily change the saturation of a hue, making it less pure. This is true for color mixing or even using digital photo editing (and is why I warned you last week not to use saturation options in photo editing to look at values in grayscale, because value is not taken into account.)
Your Bright, New, Shiny Color Vocabulary
Congratulations! You probably didn’t realize it but you just completed a major step in your color education. If you’ve read all the posts, you have learned (or refreshed your understanding of) the three most important aspects of color – Hue, Value, and Saturation.
And, now, with this article, you’ve come to know the three primary ways to change a color. Let’s review because it’s kind of cool to realize how much you’ve soaked up.
The three primary characteristics of color:
Hue – the key and name of a color.
Value – the lightness or darkness of a color.
Saturation – how pure or how adulterated a color is due to the addition of white, black, gray or a complementary color.
The three primary ways of adjusting color in pigments:
Tint – the addition of white to a color.
Shade – the addition of black to a color.
Tone – the addition of gray or a complementary hue to a color.
Look at that! You have six color terms that are going to help you tremendously in color mixing, choosing palettes, and analyzing work. But let’s spend a little more time with those last three just to be sure you got them well seated in your creative little brains.
Color Quiz
Okay, let’s put your new knowledge to the test. Take a look at the opening image and the images below and find the pure hue (just visually – you don’t have to name it) and then determine the variation of that hue was accomplished with tints, shades, and/or tone. We’ll chat about them after you have a chance to come up with your own thoughts.
Carved wooden vessel by Louise Hibbert
A polymer bracelet by Judy Belcher.
Well, what did you come up with? Some of these examples are not so straightforward but I find them very interesting.
First of all, Pikalda’s glass beads that open this post have a saturated blue as its key color while the other color variations, aside from the black and white accents, are the key blue with white added so they are tinted versions of the key color. Pretty easy to see that, right?
With Louise Hibbert’s wooden vessel, the key is a kind of violet and, I’m sure you guessed it, the gradation to the nearly black tips is the result of adding black, in other words, creating shades of the hue. But there are also diluted versions of the hue where she lets the wood show through towards the center. Is that a tint because it makes it lighter or a tone becuase it isn’t quite white that has been added?
Well, think in terms of the color elements here. Since the violet color is translucent, it visually mixes with the color of the wood, a pale cream, which is a tint of yellow. This actually makes that diluted violet a tone because the change in color is not due to the addition of just white or just black and it’s a color that muddies the key color even if just a little. It’s true that yellow is not the direct complement of violet – that would be a yellow-green – but you can actually tone down a color with something close to its complement too. We’ll get more into those complexities when we get deeper into color mixing so you can just stash that info away for later if you like.
Now, in Judy Belcher’s bracelet, it gets even a bit more complicated because, in truth, the fully saturated hue is not present. That would be bright lime green but the key color has been toned down with variations of gray. In fact, the entire bracelet is a series of lime green tones with nothng else but some white. Some tones are due to a very light gray addition, others to a few different middle grays and the darkest green would be a tone with a dark gray. Being able to spot the key in something like this takes practice but not a lot. It might just take the following little exercises.
For Further Study
Okay, so there are a couple ways you can further concrete your, hopefully, not too hard-earned knowledge. These are both fun and easy and take 10-15 minutes each to do.
Color Wheel Studies
First of all, if you bought yourself that CMY color wheel I suggested – or even if you didn’t – you can see tones, tints and shades set up on this handy color tool with approximate percentages that one would mix to achieve these colors from a key. Here is a video that the Color Wheel Company put together to explain how to use their color wheel tool while making note of where these items are on it so you can familiarize yourself with them just by looking over your color wheel. Clicking on the image takes you to the purchase page but scroll down to find the videos.
Isn’t crazy just how much information they put on this little paper tool? Keep in mind that those percentages for the tones, tints and shades are approximate because in the real world, our materials have varying amounts of pigment so adding 10% of one complement to a color could make a dramatic change while adding 10% of a complement to another color may make almost no change. You’ll start to get a sense of the stronger and weaker colors (and brands) if you do the exercise below and as we work through color mixing in July.
Mix it Up
Studying the color wheel is an easy and quick way to see the difference between tone, tint, and shade but the best way to not only remember the terminology and what it means but to really understand how saturation, tint, shade, and tone work in color is to mix it up.
So, grab some clay in one fully saturated key color. Pick your favorite or grab one of the primaries – cyan, magenta, or yellow. You also need a bit of your chosen color’s complement plus black and white. Roll out each clay on your thickest pasta machine setting and, using a single punch cutter, punch out portions of clay from each sheet. (You can also do this with paint – you won’t be “punching” out your portions but, instead, you’ll be picking up dabs of paint.)
- At the top of a piece of paper, write Tint, Shade, Complement Tone, and Gray Tone as column headers
- Put one portion of your key color under each column header. This will be a starting point for each color as we desaturate it.
- Punch out two portions of your key color and mix it with two portions of white until well mixed. Sheet the clay and punch out one portion of this mix. Put it under the tint column with space enough between it and the key color for another portion.
- Take one of those mixed portions and one of the key color and mix that. Punch a portion out of this new mix and place it between the previous mix and the key color.
- Take the last portion of the first mix and mix it with a portion of white. Punch out a portion of this very light mix and line it up in the column under the middle mix, followed by a portion of whites to complete a column of tints from key color to white.
At this point you have three desaturated tint versions of the key color. These are not a lot of steps between the key color and white but it will give you an idea of what white does to a fully saturated color. If you are game before creating a wider range of this tint sampler, you can double the amount for each of the three mixes we just did so you can mix additional portions and create four more steps, one between each of the five portions in the tint column.
- Now go through the exact same process, creating 3 or 7 mixes, as you prefer, but instead of white …
- … make a column using black to build a range under the Shade header. You may want to use 2-3 times as much key color as black for your middle shade to get a better gradation since black is very strong, as you can see in my example. I used twice as much key color and all the mixes are still awfully dark.
- … use the complementary color to create a range under the Complementary Tone column.
- … mix a gray (I used twice as much white as black to get my middle gray) to add to the key color to create a range under the Gray Tone column.
You will probably notice, as you mix, that sometimes the progression from the key color to the color you mix in is not very even or regular. For instance, if your key color is particularly dark in value such as the Ultramarine blue, the jump between the last mix and white may seem quite a bit different, like it could use another mix in between. You are, of course, welcome to change up the portions of color in your mixes to make a more regularly graduated range. This will, however, demonstrate that the amount of pigment in different colors of clay and between brands can differ and so some colors will dominate in a mix. You’ll need to use more of the weaker color to make the range gradations more even. But making a perfectly graduated range is not the purpose of this exercise. The idea is that you make the mixes, see the changes in color, and associated with the terminology.
Now why am I so adamant about you learning the terminology? Well, in July, as we learn about color mixing and palette choices, being able to verbalize the common and contrasting characteristics in a set of colors will be key to making beautiful, intentional color choices. Plus, you can impress friends, family, and complete strangers with sophisticated color banter!
So, relax and mix up some colors. It’s easy and often surprising how the colors come out. I have found more than one “new favorite color” doing these kinds of exercises. You just might find a inspiring new color or two as well!
Wondering about my references to Intention? Or how to support this content?
If you enjoy these articles, you can help me keep the lights on by making a purchase of any of the publications I have on the Tenth Muse Arts website or by making a one-time or monthly contribution here.
Read the set of articles on Intention in the February edition of the Virtual Art Box or catch up on the concept of marks, lines, and shape with a purchase of one or more of the original Virtual Art Box offerings. They are all on SALE, 25% off right now – no promo code needed. I have also put all books on sale at 20% off for the next couple weeks so it’s a great time to fill up your library.
Your purchases help support this free content as well as giving you a stronger base for the conversations we will have going forward.
If your budget doesn’t allow such support, that’s perfectly okay. I just hope this is supporting your creative journey giving you more joy in your work. if it does, just let people know this is freely available so I can support even more folks.
My Weird Low Pressure Week
Hopefully there aren’t too many mistakes here. I need to beg your forgiveness if there are. My brain has literally been shorted as I gave blood this past week and got tested to see if I am a antibody plasma donor candidate to help out COVID-19 patients but my naturally very low blood pressue has yet to recover so I feel very dingy and am sometimes dizzy still, 5 days later. I never could give blood in Colorado due to the high elevation and even lower blood pressure up there but they thought I’d be fine down here. Well, guess not. We learn something new all the time!
So, I probably can’t give plasma eithere but I am still going to do all I can during this rough time to help others and, as part of that, maybe you will allow me to ask a little favor. I know this has gotten a little political here in the states but thsi is not about politics … I would just like to ask that when you are out, and it has been recommended where you live, you can show your love and concern for your community by the simple act of wearing a mask. I wear one everywhere even though I’ve already had this bug so I am supposedly immune and can’t pass it on. But people are scared and worried and wearing a mask shows you care, even if you question the validity of the science that says it will save others from getting sick. We need all the consideration and caring we can put out there right now, don’t you think?
Ok, that is my public service announcement for the day. I hope you are all staying well and will find joy in a creative and colorful week!
Graduated Colored Cups
February 23, 2014
Technique tutorials
Here we see another limited palette using gradients of the same color for the theme. Even though flowers lend themselves to this technique, you certainly don’t have to make a hyacinth flower with it. Of course, we can’t think about gradient colors without thinking of Skinner blends. The gradient used here is made by adding varying amounts of white to the base color, but you could also go in the other direction, and add blacks, which would darken the gradient. You could also try analogous blends, using a limited color palette of colors that are near each other on the color wheel.
The artist who made these grape hyacinth pins is Kellie Mowat. She has tutorials that make use of repetition and a limited color palette, as well as tutorials for lots of other mediums. She also has some tutorials posted on YouTube for all of you visual learners out there.
If you like this blog, support The Polymer Arts projects with a subscription or issue of The Polymer Arts magazine as well as supporting our advertising partners.
Floral in Fall
August 28, 2013
Inspirational Art
Working up a Fall product line doesn’t mean leaving your floral tendencies behind; the fashion designers certainly aren’t this coming year. From all I’ve read about upcoming trends, pattern in general will be a big focus and flowers, especially wispy wildflowers, daisies, and even dandelions, look to be the “in”thing. So how would you change things up from your Spring or Summer collection of blossoms?
Color will be primary in changing up for a Fall look. Although the Pantone palette for Fall has some rather bright colors, they are not pure colors or pastel. The Samba red and the Koi orange are both deeper and a step or two off their color origin, and the lighter colors are neutral more than anything; the Linden Green comes awfully close to being a kahki, and the Deep Lichen Green is more a cool gray than a green. So, can your flowers still be beautifully ornamental if toned down from their summer brilliance or if created in neutral colors? Of course!
Eva Thissen does neutral floral with a very delicate and controlled application of lines, small shapes, and contrast in color. In this case, we have a rich red heavily contrasting a neutral green (pretty much that Samba red and Linden green in the Pantone palette) with subdued blue, cream, pink, and brown flowers accenting the scene. Feminine, fetching, and definitely floral, there is the reserve and the richness associated with Fall, although I would be putting this in my jewelry rotation year round.
Part of Eva’s distinction as a polymer artist is in her color choices. Although she is far from the only one to work heavily in the polymer embroidery technique, I find I easily recognize her work due to her color choices, not to mention the precision of application with those tiny bits of polymer and her penchant for story-like scenes. Enjoy perusing her Flickr pages and her enchanting pieces for a bit today.
Vera of Handmade Blossom employs all major hues in this Rainbow Roses pendant.
How comfortable are you feeling about the terminology learned last week? Feel secure in your understanding of values, saturation, tints, shades, and tones? I do hope so because I am going to throw more terminology at you today but, thankfully, these will be pretty familiar to a lot of you although you might have felt uncertain or confused about them previously. For some of you, this will be brand-new which is super exciting and, in a way, it will be much easier for you to take it in, unencumbered by any previous confusion.
These concepts are standard color theory points within the old RYB color set that are also used when using CMY as the primaries. (If you don’t know about the RYB versus CMY situation please take a look at the post “Not the Hue You Know”. It’s a really interesting article, if I do say so myself!)
A wheel to reference as you read. Click to enlarge and open in another window.
Familial Color Relationships
So, if you have been reading my free posted lessons since the beginning of June, you have heard me talk about primary and secondary colors. These terms describe the relationship between colors but if you are going to get the most out of what you’ve been learning, you will need to know about a few more relationships that will be useful for both color mixing and choosing color palettes.
There are three standard terms used to define a kind of hierarchical order among hues that I think resemble a family. You can think of primaries as the elders, secondaries as their children, and tertiaries as their grandchildren.
Primary colors are the colors that cannot be mixed using other colors. On the color wheel we will be using, those three are Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow. Since, every color can be mixed from these three (this actually depends on the medium but let’s just go with it for now), they are extremely important and so are at the top of this hierarchy.
Secondary colors are those mixed using two primaries. On the CMY color wheel that is Red, Green, and Blue.
Tertiary colors are those made by mixing a primary and one of its two nearby secondary colors. These include yellow-green, green-cyan, blue-cyan, violet, red-magenta, and orange. You can see the predominance of hyphenated word descriptors for these colors but violet and orange have single word names since they were used on the RYB color wheel that was so prevalent for so many years as well as being identified wavelengths in the scientific world.
Now, for you purple lovers, let me make a side comment. I know, most of us are used to thinking and saying that purple comes between blue and magenta (or red) but purple is not actually a hue. The reason has to do with the light spectrum and the cones in our eyes and all kinds of scientific stuff I don’t think we need to get into. I did start talking in terms of purple earlier in the series of articles but that isn’t technically correct and because so many of you are now working off the CMY color wheel I recommended, and it refers to the color between magenta and blue as violet, I’m going to use the color name violet so as to not confuse too many people and because that really is the correct name.
So, these three types of hues – primaries (of which there are 3), secondaries (of which there are also 3), and tertiaries (of which there are 6) – do not, by far, encompass all the possible hues out there. They do, however, designate 12 useful portions of a color wheel that we can readily work with to identify color relationships necessary to the mixing and choosing of colors.
That was easy, right?
Color Combination Relations
Okay, so we just defined the metaphorical familial relationships between hues. Now, I want to talk about a different kind of relationship– the relationship between combinations of colors. We can think of these as cliques of friends. Just as some people get along with certain other people much better, certain colors get along with other colors much better. This is true for color palettes as well as for color mixing although maybe for color mixing we should think of it as team of coworkers where you put people (colors) together depending on what you need. Are my metaphors making any sense? I can only hope.
I’ll start you would just three color combination relationships – complementary, analogous, and split complementary. There are a number of other commonly used color relationships that fall under the friends/coworkers metaphor such as triads, tetrads, and squares but those won’t be important until we hit color palettes so we won’t muddle up your poor little brains with all that just yet. Plus, these are the only three that knee consideration in both palettes and mixing.
Complementary colors are those that are across the color wheel from each other. They are considered opposites and, if mixed together, they will include all three primaries in varying degrees. This is why compliments “tone” each other down instead of just creating a new hue as discussed last week. If you’re scratching your head, just look at the color wheel and look at any two complementary colors. Jot down what primary colors would make each of them and you’ll find that list would include one of each primary. You can also see the primaries included in each color on the outside edge of the Color Wheel Company’s color wheel.
Complementary violet and yellow-green are used in this polymer and gold ring by An Fen Kuo.
Analogous colors are those next to each other on the color wheel. Choosing 3-5 (out of our 12) colors in a row make for a harmonious color scheme.
Analogous range from green to yellow in this set by Jana Lehmann.
Split complementary colors refer to a color on that is next to a particular color’s complement.
Metal and enamel brooch by Marks Alexander with a blue cyan and its split complementaries of red and yellow
Now, why are these relationships important?
I am going to refer to these color relationships quite a bit when we get to color mixing and color palettes but let’s look at a bit of color mixing as a kind of demonstration. Don’t worry if this doesn’t sink in immediately. We will be going over this in more depth later. I have discovered in teaching that presenting the same thing several times in several different ways, especially over time, can really drive an idea home. So, here’s kind of a taster and then we will look delve into this again in the coming weeks.
Let’s say you’d like to make an olive green. You could just grab a green out of the bin an add a touch of black to it to make it darker and more neutral, right? Well, yes, you could but is it the olive you want? You may find that it still looks awfully, well, green, more like dark leaves than army jacket.
Below is a selectin of olive greens. Hold up the color wheel next to them. I think you’ll see that there is quite a bit of yellow in an olive green. Because of that, if the green you chose to start your color mixing is heavy on the cyan (leans towards blue) it will be hard to get to a satisfactory olive with just black. This is where prepackaged, already mixed, colors can be troublesome to mix with. I think you will find that mixing your own green, cyan and yellow, going heavy on the yellow, and then adding a bit of black will get you a nicer olive green.
If you want to get fancy with the color mixing, you might also try a touch of violet or magenta to “tone” down the color instead of depending wholly on the black to do it.
Now let’s see if things I have been saying are sticking with you. Look at the color wheel and then try to surmise why I suggested violet or magenta. What do you think?
Well, if you remember from last week’s discussion about tones, at mixing a little bit of a complementary color is what gives you a toned down color. So, violet works since it is the complement of a yellow-green but you can also use a color’s split compliments to tone it down which is one of the two reasons I suggested magenta as an option.
Perhaps you’ve put together the reason why this works from my earlier comment about why compliments tone things down. It’s because “toning down” is really all about the addition of the missing primary color that isn’t in the color you’re trying to tone down. Because of that, you can use any color that includes the missing primary, not just the complementary color.
So, a yellow-green has cyan and yellow in it but does not have any magenta in the mix, right? Therefore, you can actually tone it down with anything from orange to that indigo blue you see on the CMY color wheel. But why did I suggest magenta rather than violet? Well, I was thinking that maybe we don’t want to add too much more cyan to that olive green, in order to preserve more of that yellow in the yellow-green hue, and both violet and indigo blue have cyan in it. So, if you add a touch of magenta you, preserve more of the yellow. Of course, if you are yellow-green is yellower than you want, go for violator indigo. That will tone down the yellow a bit.
Here is another question for all you smarty-pants… Why do you think black, as discussed last week, is an option for toning down a color?
The answer is in what black is made of. If remember from way back in the first article in June, with pigments, black is the inclusion of all primary colors. So, if you had black, you are technically adding a missing primary to your color no matter what the color is. Right?
Isn’t it really cool how there is usually some pretty simple underlying reasoning behind all these color rules? Or maybe it’s just me. I always want to know why something works. If I know why I can remember it, use it, and abuse it as needed.
So, are you beginning to see why you would need to be familiar with where colors fall on the color wheel and how their relationships will inform your color mixing choices? Also knowing about these relationships makes remembering things like compliments easier – the complement to a primary is always a secondary and vice versa, and the complement of a tertiary color is always another tertiary. Easy stuff!
Explore Your Favorite Color Relationships
This week, if you want to explore these ideas further, just grab your color wheel (or view it here) and spend some lazy time looking it over and discovering more about how particular colors relate.
For instance, are you surprised the complement to red is cyan and not green? Orange and cyan blue actually are pretty familiar, aren’t they? And that indigo blue on the wheel is not so far off from purple so the purple-yellow complement combination you might have been acquainted with from the RYB color wheel also feels comfortably familiar.
Find a set or two of three analogous colors that have high contrast. Even though they are all next each other on the color wheel, that doesn’t mean they have the same or similar values, nor does it mean that it needs to look basically monochromatic. Can you find some analogous color combinations you like, ones that you might use in an upcoming project?
Find the key hue for some of your favorite color pairs. Are they complements? Or are they more of a split complement? Maybe you are into analogous colors? For instance, one of my favorite combos is royal purple and forest green. Those are violet and green key hues and are therefore a split complement.
Split compliments are actually really great pairings, especially in situations where you want color contrast but maybe not the drama of complete opposites. Identify a few more split complementary pairs on the color wheel that you find appealing.
Okay, I will leave you with this swirl of color information taking over your brain. Keep identifying colors you see around you, naming them as primary, secondary or tertiary colors so that, as we move along, the conversations we have will be easily and quickly grasped. Also, have fun finding color pairs out in the world or while you’re playing at your studio table, and again, identify them, when relevant (because there are other color combinations we haven’t hit on yet), as complementary, analogous, or split complementary. Because, next week, we start getting serious about mixing!
Support This Blog!
If you appreciate the articles and the work put into presenting these for you, and you are in a good financial position, you can help support my work by purchasing publications on the website or you can contribute in a one-time or monthly capacity.
The sale is still on for books and past Virtual Art Boxes so you can get that special pricing on publications as well! 20% off all books and 25% off VABs.
I’m trying to work up some special extras for my monetary contributors to show you how appreciative I am of your generosity! You all are amazing. Thank you so much!
Read More
Lampwork beads by Pikalda Phuengpong
Have you noticed that, in art, very few things exist or are created in a vacuum? In other words, every choice you make has an effect on all the other choices you have made or will make when designing and creating original works of art. So, if you are coming to my blog for the first time, you may want to read the last three weeks of posts first because each successive article builds off the last.
Last week we talked about color value and this week we’re going to talk about how you can change the value along with something called saturation. This will be a little heavy on terminology but it’s easy stuff and by the time you’re done reading, you will have quite the sophisticated color vocabulary.
I also want to speak for just a moment on the reason you would want to do this deep dive into color and design. Whether you create your own colors or simply choose colors from pre-mixed options, your choices are best ruled by your understanding of the characteristics of color. Of course, understanding color characteristics is essential in color mixing but choosing and identifying color requires the same knowledge especially when creating color palettes, analyzing your work (or the work of others), and correcting or improving your color choices.
Working with color, like anything else in design, is about the relationship between colors and between all the design elements. In design, we work with likeness and disparity. That’s really what all relationships are about, aren’t they? Think about your spouse or your best friend or the coworkers you like to hang around with. You have something in common, some area of your life that overlaps that you can share. But you also have differences. These differences make the relationship interesting, encourages curiosity and conversation, and allows each of you to fulfill different roles in the relationship. That’s how design works as well, including between colors.
So, if you keep in mind that these conversations are about those design relationships, I think you’ll start to see just how useful and essential these immersive color lessons are regardless of whether you makes your own colors, pick available colors, or simply want a better understanding of the art that you enjoy.
Saturation is Not Value
Now, let’s talk about value versus saturation. For some reason, these two concepts get confused a lot even though they are quite different. As you learned last week, value is the lightness or darkness of a color. Saturation, however, is about how intense the color is or how close it is to the unadulterated hue or “key” color, at least in regard to pigment. (This is dealt with a little bit differently when it comes to mixing light in RGB. Just thought you ought to know that in case you come across a definition that talks about saturation, brightness, and luminosity. That’s RGB stuff.)
So, let’s take a pure blue as an example of both high saturation and dark value. Take a look at the color wheel. True blue, in its most saturated and vivid form there on the outside ring of the color wheel, is far darker than pure yellow. You could make that blue as light in value as yellow by adding a lot of white to it but that would also change its saturation because the addition of white takes away from the purity of the hue, right? The addition of white in a color is called tint.
Now let’s take that yellow. If you wanted it to be as dark in value as the blue, you could add a lot of black, so much so that it would probably look gray with little yellow to be gleaned. This would both darken the value and desaturate it, a lot. The addition of black to a color is known as shade.
So that’s the thing with adding black or white to a color. It will desaturate a color but it also will make it lighter or darker in value. I bet that doesn’t fully clarify why value and saturation are so different since adding white or black changes the lightness or darkness (value) as well as the intensity of a color (saturation). Well, here’s the thing – you can, on the other hand, change the saturation without changing the value, just not with black or white.
Let’s look at the color red for moment. On the CMY color wheel, you can see that opposite red is cyan. They look to be about the same midrange color value, right? If you add a bit of cyan to the red that will reduce the saturation or purity of the red by altering its hue but it will not make a noticeable change to its value. If you got yourself one of those CMY color wheels, you’ll see on the front side there that each ring getting closer to the center shows what happens when you add 10%, 20%, 30%, or 40% of each hue’s complementary color. That kind of mix tones down the color which is why it is called a tone.
You can also tone down a color without changing its value by adding a gray that is the same value as the color. In fact, a fully desaturated color would be just gray. Or you can mix in a lighter or darker gray to make the color lighter or darker while toning it down but without muddying the key with its complement. A gray mixed with a color is also called tone.
So, you see, changing saturation can, but does not always, change value but changing the value will necessarily change the saturation of a hue, making it less pure. This is true for color mixing or even using digital photo editing (and is why I warned you last week not to use saturation options in photo editing to look at values in grayscale, because value is not taken into account.)
Your Bright, New, Shiny Color Vocabulary
Congratulations! You probably didn’t realize it but you just completed a major step in your color education. If you’ve read all the posts, you have learned (or refreshed your understanding of) the three most important aspects of color – Hue, Value, and Saturation.
And, now, with this article, you’ve come to know the three primary ways to change a color. Let’s review because it’s kind of cool to realize how much you’ve soaked up.
The three primary characteristics of color:
Hue – the key and name of a color.
Value – the lightness or darkness of a color.
Saturation – how pure or how adulterated a color is due to the addition of white, black, gray or a complementary color.
The three primary ways of adjusting color in pigments:
Tint – the addition of white to a color.
Shade – the addition of black to a color.
Tone – the addition of gray or a complementary hue to a color.
Look at that! You have six color terms that are going to help you tremendously in color mixing, choosing palettes, and analyzing work. But let’s spend a little more time with those last three just to be sure you got them well seated in your creative little brains.
Color Quiz
Okay, let’s put your new knowledge to the test. Take a look at the opening image and the images below and find the pure hue (just visually – you don’t have to name it) and then determine the variation of that hue was accomplished with tints, shades, and/or tone. We’ll chat about them after you have a chance to come up with your own thoughts.
Carved wooden vessel by Louise Hibbert
A polymer bracelet by Judy Belcher.
Well, what did you come up with? Some of these examples are not so straightforward but I find them very interesting.
First of all, Pikalda’s glass beads that open this post have a saturated blue as its key color while the other color variations, aside from the black and white accents, are the key blue with white added so they are tinted versions of the key color. Pretty easy to see that, right?
With Louise Hibbert’s wooden vessel, the key is a kind of violet and, I’m sure you guessed it, the gradation to the nearly black tips is the result of adding black, in other words, creating shades of the hue. But there are also diluted versions of the hue where she lets the wood show through towards the center. Is that a tint because it makes it lighter or a tone becuase it isn’t quite white that has been added?
Well, think in terms of the color elements here. Since the violet color is translucent, it visually mixes with the color of the wood, a pale cream, which is a tint of yellow. This actually makes that diluted violet a tone because the change in color is not due to the addition of just white or just black and it’s a color that muddies the key color even if just a little. It’s true that yellow is not the direct complement of violet – that would be a yellow-green – but you can actually tone down a color with something close to its complement too. We’ll get more into those complexities when we get deeper into color mixing so you can just stash that info away for later if you like.
Now, in Judy Belcher’s bracelet, it gets even a bit more complicated because, in truth, the fully saturated hue is not present. That would be bright lime green but the key color has been toned down with variations of gray. In fact, the entire bracelet is a series of lime green tones with nothng else but some white. Some tones are due to a very light gray addition, others to a few different middle grays and the darkest green would be a tone with a dark gray. Being able to spot the key in something like this takes practice but not a lot. It might just take the following little exercises.
For Further Study
Okay, so there are a couple ways you can further concrete your, hopefully, not too hard-earned knowledge. These are both fun and easy and take 10-15 minutes each to do.
Color Wheel Studies
First of all, if you bought yourself that CMY color wheel I suggested – or even if you didn’t – you can see tones, tints and shades set up on this handy color tool with approximate percentages that one would mix to achieve these colors from a key. Here is a video that the Color Wheel Company put together to explain how to use their color wheel tool while making note of where these items are on it so you can familiarize yourself with them just by looking over your color wheel. Clicking on the image takes you to the purchase page but scroll down to find the videos.
Isn’t crazy just how much information they put on this little paper tool? Keep in mind that those percentages for the tones, tints and shades are approximate because in the real world, our materials have varying amounts of pigment so adding 10% of one complement to a color could make a dramatic change while adding 10% of a complement to another color may make almost no change. You’ll start to get a sense of the stronger and weaker colors (and brands) if you do the exercise below and as we work through color mixing in July.
Mix it Up
Studying the color wheel is an easy and quick way to see the difference between tone, tint, and shade but the best way to not only remember the terminology and what it means but to really understand how saturation, tint, shade, and tone work in color is to mix it up.
So, grab some clay in one fully saturated key color. Pick your favorite or grab one of the primaries – cyan, magenta, or yellow. You also need a bit of your chosen color’s complement plus black and white. Roll out each clay on your thickest pasta machine setting and, using a single punch cutter, punch out portions of clay from each sheet. (You can also do this with paint – you won’t be “punching” out your portions but, instead, you’ll be picking up dabs of paint.)
- At the top of a piece of paper, write Tint, Shade, Complement Tone, and Gray Tone as column headers
- Put one portion of your key color under each column header. This will be a starting point for each color as we desaturate it.
- Punch out two portions of your key color and mix it with two portions of white until well mixed. Sheet the clay and punch out one portion of this mix. Put it under the tint column with space enough between it and the key color for another portion.
- Take one of those mixed portions and one of the key color and mix that. Punch a portion out of this new mix and place it between the previous mix and the key color.
- Take the last portion of the first mix and mix it with a portion of white. Punch out a portion of this very light mix and line it up in the column under the middle mix, followed by a portion of whites to complete a column of tints from key color to white.
At this point you have three desaturated tint versions of the key color. These are not a lot of steps between the key color and white but it will give you an idea of what white does to a fully saturated color. If you are game before creating a wider range of this tint sampler, you can double the amount for each of the three mixes we just did so you can mix additional portions and create four more steps, one between each of the five portions in the tint column.
- Now go through the exact same process, creating 3 or 7 mixes, as you prefer, but instead of white …
- … make a column using black to build a range under the Shade header. You may want to use 2-3 times as much key color as black for your middle shade to get a better gradation since black is very strong, as you can see in my example. I used twice as much key color and all the mixes are still awfully dark.
- … use the complementary color to create a range under the Complementary Tone column.
- … mix a gray (I used twice as much white as black to get my middle gray) to add to the key color to create a range under the Gray Tone column.
You will probably notice, as you mix, that sometimes the progression from the key color to the color you mix in is not very even or regular. For instance, if your key color is particularly dark in value such as the Ultramarine blue, the jump between the last mix and white may seem quite a bit different, like it could use another mix in between. You are, of course, welcome to change up the portions of color in your mixes to make a more regularly graduated range. This will, however, demonstrate that the amount of pigment in different colors of clay and between brands can differ and so some colors will dominate in a mix. You’ll need to use more of the weaker color to make the range gradations more even. But making a perfectly graduated range is not the purpose of this exercise. The idea is that you make the mixes, see the changes in color, and associated with the terminology.
Now why am I so adamant about you learning the terminology? Well, in July, as we learn about color mixing and palette choices, being able to verbalize the common and contrasting characteristics in a set of colors will be key to making beautiful, intentional color choices. Plus, you can impress friends, family, and complete strangers with sophisticated color banter!
So, relax and mix up some colors. It’s easy and often surprising how the colors come out. I have found more than one “new favorite color” doing these kinds of exercises. You just might find a inspiring new color or two as well!
Wondering about my references to Intention? Or how to support this content?
If you enjoy these articles, you can help me keep the lights on by making a purchase of any of the publications I have on the Tenth Muse Arts website or by making a one-time or monthly contribution here.
Read the set of articles on Intention in the February edition of the Virtual Art Box or catch up on the concept of marks, lines, and shape with a purchase of one or more of the original Virtual Art Box offerings. They are all on SALE, 25% off right now – no promo code needed. I have also put all books on sale at 20% off for the next couple weeks so it’s a great time to fill up your library.
Your purchases help support this free content as well as giving you a stronger base for the conversations we will have going forward.
If your budget doesn’t allow such support, that’s perfectly okay. I just hope this is supporting your creative journey giving you more joy in your work. if it does, just let people know this is freely available so I can support even more folks.
My Weird Low Pressure Week
Hopefully there aren’t too many mistakes here. I need to beg your forgiveness if there are. My brain has literally been shorted as I gave blood this past week and got tested to see if I am a antibody plasma donor candidate to help out COVID-19 patients but my naturally very low blood pressue has yet to recover so I feel very dingy and am sometimes dizzy still, 5 days later. I never could give blood in Colorado due to the high elevation and even lower blood pressure up there but they thought I’d be fine down here. Well, guess not. We learn something new all the time!
So, I probably can’t give plasma eithere but I am still going to do all I can during this rough time to help others and, as part of that, maybe you will allow me to ask a little favor. I know this has gotten a little political here in the states but thsi is not about politics … I would just like to ask that when you are out, and it has been recommended where you live, you can show your love and concern for your community by the simple act of wearing a mask. I wear one everywhere even though I’ve already had this bug so I am supposedly immune and can’t pass it on. But people are scared and worried and wearing a mask shows you care, even if you question the validity of the science that says it will save others from getting sick. We need all the consideration and caring we can put out there right now, don’t you think?
Ok, that is my public service announcement for the day. I hope you are all staying well and will find joy in a creative and colorful week!
Read More
Here we see another limited palette using gradients of the same color for the theme. Even though flowers lend themselves to this technique, you certainly don’t have to make a hyacinth flower with it. Of course, we can’t think about gradient colors without thinking of Skinner blends. The gradient used here is made by adding varying amounts of white to the base color, but you could also go in the other direction, and add blacks, which would darken the gradient. You could also try analogous blends, using a limited color palette of colors that are near each other on the color wheel.
The artist who made these grape hyacinth pins is Kellie Mowat. She has tutorials that make use of repetition and a limited color palette, as well as tutorials for lots of other mediums. She also has some tutorials posted on YouTube for all of you visual learners out there.
If you like this blog, support The Polymer Arts projects with a subscription or issue of The Polymer Arts magazine as well as supporting our advertising partners.
Working up a Fall product line doesn’t mean leaving your floral tendencies behind; the fashion designers certainly aren’t this coming year. From all I’ve read about upcoming trends, pattern in general will be a big focus and flowers, especially wispy wildflowers, daisies, and even dandelions, look to be the “in”thing. So how would you change things up from your Spring or Summer collection of blossoms?
Color will be primary in changing up for a Fall look. Although the Pantone palette for Fall has some rather bright colors, they are not pure colors or pastel. The Samba red and the Koi orange are both deeper and a step or two off their color origin, and the lighter colors are neutral more than anything; the Linden Green comes awfully close to being a kahki, and the Deep Lichen Green is more a cool gray than a green. So, can your flowers still be beautifully ornamental if toned down from their summer brilliance or if created in neutral colors? Of course!
Eva Thissen does neutral floral with a very delicate and controlled application of lines, small shapes, and contrast in color. In this case, we have a rich red heavily contrasting a neutral green (pretty much that Samba red and Linden green in the Pantone palette) with subdued blue, cream, pink, and brown flowers accenting the scene. Feminine, fetching, and definitely floral, there is the reserve and the richness associated with Fall, although I would be putting this in my jewelry rotation year round.
Part of Eva’s distinction as a polymer artist is in her color choices. Although she is far from the only one to work heavily in the polymer embroidery technique, I find I easily recognize her work due to her color choices, not to mention the precision of application with those tiny bits of polymer and her penchant for story-like scenes. Enjoy perusing her Flickr pages and her enchanting pieces for a bit today.
